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From The Cornhill Magazine. A CHINESE COMMISSIONER'S FOREIGN TOUR.

two li* brought us to Taku, where the forts, on either side of the river, present an imposing appearance, as befits the gateway of the Northern Sea. Passed Taku about eight o'clock, but the bar just below proved an impediment to further progress. The steamer was compelled to wait for high water at 1 P.M., when we were at length able to proceed. The foreigners used an iron weight for ascertaining the depth of water; and in little more than an hour there were eighteen or nineteen feet at the top of the tide, thus enabling us to go on without farther impediment.

IN the spring of 1866 the Chinese Ministry of Foreign Affairs gave permission to one of the writers connected with that department to accompany the principal foreign employés in their service on a tour through Europe, with instructions to report upon the condition and aspect of the various countries he should visit. Pin-ch'un, the person thus selected, was a man advanced in years, but having been employed as a writer in the Foreign Inspectorate of Customs, he was less apprehensive of the dan- 17th. In the afternoon the wind ingers arising from travel and from unre- creased to a gale, and we were much tossed stricted intercourse with Europeans than the about. Half of those on board were sick. majority of his lettered countrymen. The Towards night the wind still further ininterest which was manifested by fashionable creased, and the rolling and pitching grew society in London and Paris during the summer of 1866, on the appearance of the pig-tailed commissioner and his suite, will be remembered by many of the readers of these pages.

worse.

18th. The wind gradually fell. Went up into the pilot-house, and took a view around the entire horizon-one vast expanse of sea and sky, a waste of billows Pin-ch'un returned, and presented his re- without limit in any direction. Many miles port to the Chinese Foreign Office, by whom off there was a faint thread of smoke to be his exertions were rewarded, it is under-seen, about two or three inches long. This stood, with a post of some kind in connec- was pronounced by the captain, after looktion with the school of languages. His ing at it through a telescope, to be a threereport has not been made public, and the masted steamer. From Taku to this point diary of his travels, in which his experiences we have traversed 2,000 li of water, and were recorded from day to day, has been have seen but this one vessel a proof that allowed to circulate in manuscript only. A it is no light matter to navigate the seas! At translation of some portions of this record 6 P.M. the wind ceased, and we caught sight is now laid before the public. It has been for the first time of the new moon. In the faithfully rendered from the original Chi- evening a fog came on, and the vessel was nese, and may be found interesting, if only hove to. From Yen-tai to this point we have as a quaint representation of familiar sights made 1,500 li. and scenes regarded from the point of view of a stranger from the farthest and darkest extremity of Asia.

On the 22nd of February, 1866 (the eighth day of the first moon in the Chinese year), I, Pin-ch'un, Assistant Head-clerk in the Board of Foreign Affairs at Peking, bearing by honorary licence the button of the third official degree, received instructions from the Board of Foreign Affairs, notifying that I had been honoured by imperial commands to travel in the countries of the West, and enjoining that I should compile an accurate record concerning the lands I should visit, and prepare maps (or drawings) with explanatory notes upon the natural features of the same, their condition, climate, and national usages, and bring back the said documents to China, to be put in print for future reference.

13th. Engaged passage on board the Ying-tsze-fei, which sails to-morrow.

15th. Got under way at daybreak. Forty

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19th. Shortly before 6 A.M. the fog lifted; whereupon the anchor was got up, and we proceeded on our way. At 8 A.M. passed Sha-wei Island, and here shifted our course to N.W.† About ten o'clock sighted the entrance to Wusung. From Sha-wei Island to the entrance it is 240 li, the whole of which distance lies within the waters of the Yang-tsze-kiang.

A distance of forty li from the entrance (at Wusung) brought us to Shanghai. Both banks of the river Hwang-plu are lined with foreign houses, densely packed together; whilst the view presented by the concourse of sailing-ships and steamers of all sizes is that of an actual forest. The place may well be called the grand emporium for the foreigners of all the seventeen countries of the West.

23rd. A beautiful day. At 1 P.M. went

The Chinese li is usually reckoned as one-third of a mile. Trans. †This is the point where the Yang-tsze-kiang falls into the sea.

24th. Got under way at 5 A.M. At 10 A.M. passed out of the river and headed for the south.

27th. At 8 A.M., reached Hong Kong, the rugged peaks of which were visible from a long distance. The entrance to the harbour is many miles in length, and the appearance of the place, with its ranges of buildings scattered up and down the mountain slope, is in complete contrast to that of Shanghai. At 10 A.M. shifted to another steamer, named the Cambodge, a threedecked vessel.

28th. A fine warm day. At noon three or four of the officers took observations of the sun by means of instruments, and affirmed that during the 20 hours elapsed since our departure we had run 735 li (245 miles). This night the moon shone brilliantly, and the deep-green sea was perfectly still. Leaning against the bulwarks, and gazing into the far distance, I mused tranquilly with far-reaching aspirations.

on board the French steamer Labourdon- steam is then utilized and converted into nais. This vessel is 276 feet long, 30 feet water for use. Iron pipes are carried all beam, and 18 feet deep. Her capacity is over the ship, through which the water is 2,000 tons, of which space her machinery conducted; and, with hundreds of persons occupies the greater part, taking up 1,200 on board, there is no danger of the supply tons, which leaves only 800 tons for cargo. being deficient for drinking or for purposes She carries a captain and 11 officers, 30 of ablution. seamen, 40 engineers and firemen, 15 stewards, and 6 cooks, making in all 103 persons. There are 40 cabins on board, each accommodating 3 or 4 passengers. The dining-saloon is abaft the mainmast, where a dining-table 60 or 70 feet in length is arranged, giving room for 30 or 40 persons. The utensils of every kind are kept in the highest condition of neatness and cleanliness. Abundance and elegance characterize the service of meals: the dishes are all in the foreign style of cookery, but the majority are highly palatable. After dark the saloon is brilliantly lighted up. There are 15 cabins on either side, and in each cabin two glass lamps are inserted, beside a large toilet-glass, in which the lights are gorgeously reflected. Entering this apartment, one is dazzled with the radiance, and bewildered as though lost in a palatial maze. Forward of the mainmast are the engineroom and the gallery, with a long passage running on either side, upon which doors open, above each of which a lamp is hung. These are the cabins of the officers and the second-class passengers, numbering forty or fifty in all. The whole is brightly lit up at night. In addition to this, there are galleys, closets, &c., to the number of ten or a dozen separate apartments, all in the highest degree neat and well arranged. The captain studies charts, by which he ascertains localities and distances, and fixes the course and position of the ship by means of astronomical observations. Beside this, there are five compasses on deck, each of which is attended to by two men, for regulating the course of the ship. Soundings are taken by means of a lead, and the rate of speed is ascertained through the agency of a log-line. All other devices in use, such as for ascertaining the temperature or the state of the weather, as also for making sail and moving the rudder, are marvellously skilful. The vessel pursues her course unceasingly day and night; meals are spread in profusion, as though in the heart of a city; and one might think oneself living on shore, so little is there to give the impression of being on a journey. What is most noteworthy of all is that, whereas fresh water is a prime necessary at sea, on board steamers water is obtained through the agency of fire. The motive power of steam is employed to propel the ship, and the

29th. A fine day. Rose at 5 A.M., and saw the mists of the ocean assuming countless fanciful shapes as the sun rose above the horizon. At noon it was ascertained by observation that we had run 1,207 li in the past twenty-four hours, and that we were only 1,180 li from Saigon. Since nine o'clock, the mountains and islands of the coast of Cochin-China have been in sight, extending to the westward of us at a distance of about thirty miles. The beat has been intense to-day, and punkahs have been put up on board. Fifteen men are employed in pulling them, and they produce a constant current of air above the seats. Although more than one hundred persons sat down to meals, no inconvenience from heat was felt.

4th. Sailed at 9 A.M. At noon the sky grew overcast, and for the first time a little coolness was experienced. Towards night a heavy thunderstorm came on, but the vessel continued her course as though nothing were the matter. Nothing but a steamship could have done this.

April. 9th. At 3 P.M. anchored at Ceylon.

10th. At 7 P.M. the steamer put to sea. Upwards of 170 additional passengers have come on board, and she is crowded to the utmost degree. There are twenty-seven nationalities represented on board, speaking

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seventeen different to differs from his neig pearance and costu and lanky, others en with whiskers growin their hair, and long 1 the wind. The rob were for the most pa tons, resembling the in our melodramas, a like Tibetan lamas ceremony of exorcis was very striking an the various Europe other hand, bore an gance and refinemen daughters also were tractive. The ladi silks and gauzy mate lar of the most eleg morning they walked or lay down upon co their husbands waiti long, attending like and call. After bre husbands and wives down arm-in-arm for and when tired woul of chairs drawn clos of conversation was ing of swallows in t waterfowl alighted day slips by in idler 16th. Among th we had a Mohamm was bound on a pilg the founder of his f minions, but since been confined to b morning he was g passengers die on are weighted with

sea.

The captain,

of the deceased, fo
40,000l. to his son,
was mentioned.
hearing of the o
asked me to com
I indited a stanza
Toward midnight
which, I was told,
ble gales often s
Kong to this point
thousands of li aci
but wind and way
and calm, and I ha

*This is the first m elling companions f above named was th his nomination for th panied, besides, by tw toms service, Messr Trans.

gular forms, but the music souls. There is an end-
ing. I found, on inquiry streets, and the twinkling
sons were Germans. Thrips, crowded together like
passed round the tables wfirmament, present a spec-
their hands, and each guesnew-year's night illumina-
or two pieces of silver mo cannot vie with either in
of airs having been played,t. The splendour of the
Their voices were pure an spectacle in itself. The
and the effect produced wries in height, with a stair-
ble. The music was kept rin; but in order to avoid
At 3 of frequent ascents, there
places in the railway-train small apartment, accom-
in front comprise the engor eight persons, which by
and putting the wheels in revolving wheel is hoisted
of the water contained (in building. Each room is
to this the remaining carrisovered indicator of intelli-
in succession, to the numough which it is known at
forty, as the case may be, that attendance is called
is like the room of a houselar room. For transmit-

of hours or more.

into three compartments, there is also a marvellous
there is a door. On entl these devices are very
found ranged along either bedding and furniture in
giving room for eight oregant in the extreme.
Above and below the seats y railway to see the place
where some dozens of articlngines are manufactured,
luggage can be stowed awstance of about thirty miles
partment has six glass windut the time occupied in the
the draughts and glare of thver four hours. The train
be opened and closed at or a dozen hills (through
riages are handsomely paith five were of great length.
with well-filled, luxurious are all like deep caverns,
can sit or lie down, eat ansome two miles or so in
and look out right and left.in whirls into pitchy black-
chooses. The carriages ne: the tunnel, but every one
vey the luggage, and those, some score or more in
commodate several camels aed by lamps. After a few
train does not start until aylight on the other side
been rung three times. Far, and we emerge once
paces the motion is graduatation in the open country
after this it becomes like ". The bridges and roads
galloping horse, whom no ir. Wheat was just in the
The houses, trees, bills, anthe afternoon visited some
side of the train fly past so e seashore.
At 3 P. M. set
are scarcely perceived by thand travelled a distance of
time the train stops, and inwas only 8 P. M. when we
the roadside there is a buildestination, Lyons, where the
the
passengers, male and fdent with lamplight as if it
purchase refreshments. Th, were even twice as bus-
establishment is a Mohameilles.

the walls there are painted The Custom-house passed
dha, and sundry (figures of ithout examination.
other monsters, huge fishes, ing and gay, and in airiness
The
are hung up all over the e finer again than those of
with five or six pictures ininformed that at the latter
senting Chinese theatrical lation is 600,000, whilst at
taking refreshment, we agaiyards of 1,000,000. There
under the light of a brillianops [in the country], and in
travelling for another co thoroughfare [sentries] are
towards 8 P.M. groves of treeclad in dark uniforms (lit.:
themselves by the waysidețith red trousers, standing
become more and more frequ

approaching Cairo, the cap i. e. in China.

24th. Got under way at 5 A.M. At 10 A.M. passed out of the river and headed for the south.

27th. At 8 A.M., reached Hong Kong, the rugged peaks of which were visible from a long distance. The entrance to the harbour is many miles in length, and the appearance of the place, with its ranges of buildings scattered up and down the mountain slope, is in complete contrast to that of Shanghai. At 10 A.M. shifted to another steamer, named the Cambodge, a threedecked vessel.

28th. A fine warm day. At noon three or four of the officers took observations of the sun by means of instruments, and affirmed that during the 20 hours elapsed since our departure we had run 735 li (245 miles). This night the moon shone brilliantly, and the deep-green sea was perfectly still. Leaning against the bulwarks, and gazing into the far distance, I mused tranquilly with far-reaching aspirations.

on board the French steamer Labourdon- steam is then utilized and converted into nais. This vessel is 276 feet long, 30 feet water for use. Iron pipes are carried all beam, and 18 feet deep. Her capacity is over the ship, through which the water is 2,000 tons, of which space her machinery conducted; and, with hundreds of persons occupies the greater part, taking up 1,200 on board, there is no danger of the supply tons, which leaves only 800 tons for cargo. being deficient for drinking or for purposes She carries a captain and 11 officers, 30 of ablution. seamen, 40 engineers and firemen, 15 stewards, and 6 cooks, making in all 103 persons. There are 40 cabins on board, each accommodating 3 or 4 passengers. The dining-saloon is abaft the mainmast, where a dining-table 60 or 70 feet in length is arranged, giving room for 30 or 40 persons. The utensils of every kind are kept in the highest condition of neatness and cleanliness. Abundance and elegance characterize the service of meals: the dishes are all in the foreign style of cookery, but the majority are highly palatable. After dark the saloon is brilliantly lighted up. There are 15 cabins on either side, and in each cabin two glass lamps are inserted, beside a large toilet-glass, in which the lights are gorgeously reflected. Entering this apartment, one is dazzled with the radiance, and bewildered as though lost in a palatial maze. Forward of the mainmast are the engineroom and the gallery, with a long passage running on either side, upon which doors open, above each of which a lamp is hung. These are the cabins of the officers and the second-class passengers, numbering forty or fifty in all. The whole is brightly lit up at night. In addition to this, there are galleys, closets, &c., to the number of ten or a dozen separate apartments, all in the highest degree neat and well arranged. The captain studies charts, by which he ascertains localities and distances, and fixes the course and position of the ship by means of astronomical observations. Beside this, there are five compasses on deck, each of which is attended to by two men, for regulating the course of the ship. Soundings are taken by means of a lead, and the rate of speed is ascertained through the agency of a log-line. All other devices in use, such as for ascertaining the temperature or the state of the weather, as also for making sail and moving the rudder, are marvellously skilful. The vessel pursues her course unceasingly day and night; meals are spread in profusion, as though in the heart of a city; and one might think oneself living on shore, so little is there to give the impression of being on a journey. What is most noteworthy of all is that, whereas fresh water is a prime necessary at sea, on board steamers water is obtained through the agency of fire. The motive power of steam is employed to propel the ship, and the

29th. A fine day. Rose at 5 A.M., and saw the mists of the ocean assuming countless fanciful shapes as the sun rose above the horizon. At noon it was ascertained by observation that we had run 1,207 li in the past twenty-four hours, and that we were only 1,180 li from Saigon. Since nine o'clock, the mountains and islands of the coast of Cochin-China have been in sight, extending to the westward of us at a distance of about thirty miles. The heat has been intense to-day, and punkahs have been put up on board. Fifteen men are employed in pulling them, and they produce a constant current of air above the seats. Although more than one hundred persons sat down to meals, no inconvenience from heat was felt.

4th. Sailed at 9 A.M. At noon the sky grew overcast, and for the first time a little coolness was experienced. Towards night a heavy thunderstorm came on, but the vessel continued her course as though nothing were the matter. Nothing but a steamship could have done this.

April. 9th. At 3 P.M. anchored at Ceylon.

10th. At 7 P.M. the steamer put to sea. Upwards of 170 additional passengers have come on board, and she is crowded to the utmost degree. There are twenty-seven nationalities represented on board, speaking

seventeen different tongues, and every man differs from his neighbour in personal appearance and costume. Some were long and lanky, others enormously stout; some with whiskers growing up to the roots of their hair, and long locks dangling loose in the wind. The robes these people wore were for the most part of gaily-tinted cottons, resembling the dresses worn by actors in our melodramas, and others again looked like Tibetan lamas about to perform the ceremony of exorcism. The effect produced was very striking and new. The natives of the various European countries, on the other hand, bore an air, in general, of elegance and refinement, and their wives and daughters also were good-looking and attractive. The ladies costumes, of light silks and gauzy materials, were in particular of the most elegant description. Of a morning they walked arm-in-arm upon deck, or lay down upon couches made of rattan, their husbands waiting upon them all day long, attending like slaves to every beck and call. After breakfast and dinner [the husbands and wives] would walk up and down arm-in-arm for a hundred steps or so, and when tired would lie down on a couple of chairs drawn close together. The noise of conversation was like that of the twittering of swallows in the eaves, or a flock of waterfowl alighted for repose. Thus the day slips by in idleness, but without ennui. 16th. Among the passengers on board we had a Mohammedan from India, who was bound on a pilgrimage to the tomb of the founder of his faith, in the Turkish dominions, but since coming on board he has been confined to bed by illness, and this morning he was gathered to rest. When passengers die on board ship, their corpses are weighted with stones and cast into the

sea.

The captain, on examining the effects of the deceased, found a will, bequeathing 40,000l. to his son, whose place of residence was mentioned. I felt much emotion on hearing of the occurrence. Mr. Hart asked me to compose some poetry, and I indited a stanza in pentameter verse. Toward midnight we passed an island, near which, I was told, sudden and unaccountable gales often spring up. From Hong Kong to this point I have travelled tens of thousands of li across the boundless ocean, but wind and waves have been propitious and calm, and I have been able each day to

make my notes in the full-formed character. All my fellow-travellers have suffered, and as for myself the enjoyment of such comfort on this mission, taking me for the first time in my life upon the seas, can be due to no other cause than the favouring fortunes of the Sacred Son of Heaven! On the

18th. Arrived at Aden at noon. right hand a range of mountains extends for many miles, through which an entrance is formed resembling a gateway, and the vessel takes up her anchorage in a land-locked harbour. The hills are rugged and fantastic in outline, showing mile after mile of precipitous peaks, all utterly devoid of vegetation. On shore there are a dozen or so of mud-built houses occupied as barracks for the English troops, and for storing coal for the use of the ocean steamers. The distance from Ceylon to this point is 6,400 and odd li, and without a settlement of this kind there would be a difficulty in coaling and watering vessels. It is for this reason that the British have stationed troops at this spot, commanding the highway from east to west, and made it a depôt for necessaries. The undertaking is a highly useful one. The place itself, however, produces absolutely nothing. Everything that is required in the way of live stock, provisions, and coal has to be imported from abroad. Sailed at 11 P.M.

22nd. A fine day. Our run at noon was 729 li. At 3 P.M. sighted a lofty tower rising in the midst of the sea. On approaching, saw that it is built in seven stories, and rises to a height of more than 100 feet. It is constructed of iron, and a red flag is displayed on the summit. One of the persons on board told me that this building is placed where it stands in order to mark the position of a shoal. Persons are stationed within, who hoist a flag when a vessel comes in sight, and display a light after dark, in order that navigators may be warned to keep at a distance. This is, indeed, a most excellent undertaking.

24th. Anchored at Suez shortly after midnight. Rose at 4 A.M., and at 6 A.M. we were transferred, with our luggage, to a small steamer, which conveyed us a distance of three or four miles to the landingplace. Went to the hotel, a building with lofty and handsome rooms. Tables were spread in four rows, giving seats for 150 persons, and meals are served precisely as on board the steamer, except that wine has This is the first mention Pin makes of his trav- to be paid for as ordered. While we were elling companions from China. The gentlemen above named was the patron to whom Pin owed breakfasting, loud sounds of music were his nomination for the journey; and he was accom- heard. The performers were eight in numpanied, besides, by two interpreters from the Cus-ber, male and female, and the instruments toms service, Messrs. Bowra and Deschamps. Trans. which they played were of very sin

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