erect with a weapon (staff) in their hands. There is a constant succession of police passing to and fro, all wearing bright new uniforms, not a single one in shabby or worn clothing! One unceasing rattle arises from the traffic of vehicles, and the multitudes of foot-passengers may be compared to swarms of ants; but all is tranquil, nevertheless, and no confusion prevails. Unquestionably, it is a land of politeness and good order. 8th. M. de Méritens, of the [Chinese] Customs (at home on leave), accompanied me to a public establishment where drawings were being made having reference to dwellings in the style of various countries about to be erected at Paris. Also went to a vast building of glass, 300 feet in height and large in proportion. It contains a countless number of fine paintings, very triumphs of pictorial art. After this, proceeded two or three miles to the westward, where the Government gardens stand. It is quite beyond my power to do justice to the rich display of botanical treasures, and the wonders of the animal kingdom, which are to be seen at this place; but what is most remarkable is that all the most curious among the scaly and finny tribes of the seas are reared in confinement here, separately lodged according to their species in glass compartments, accompanied by aquatic plants and marine rocks, presenting a complete tableaux of the denizens of ocean! Some scores of rare specimens of crustacea are kept alive here in some twenty or thirty different compartments, and visitors are able to inspect most minutely these creeping things of the waters a most remarkable sight indeed! In the evening I went to the theatre, which was not over until midnight. The subject of the play referred wholly to scenes of ancient times. The size of the stage (lit.: room) was such as to give space for 200 or 300 persons, with representations of natural scenery and houses or apartments changing and dissolving instantaneously. The eye is dazzled by the splendour of the gay costumes that are worn. Fifty or sixty females, actresses, made their appearance on the stage, of whom one-half were noticeable for good looks, the great majority being nude to the extent of half their persons, and took part in the performance as dancers. During the progress of the play, natural scenery accompanied by cascades, with the sun and moon, alternately shining and obscured, was represented, whilst figures of the gods or crowds of fairies were seen descending from on high, amidst a dazzling halo of light, forming an inconceivably marvellous spectacle. Those present in the theatre, to the number of more than a thousand, joined unanimously in applauding it by clapping their hands. 10th. Called upon the British and United States' Ministers, who are respectively stationed at Paris. In the evening went to a theatre to see equestrian performances, which I found superior to Chinese horseracing. A female performer danced upon a horse's back, and while the animal was racing at full speed she jumped through a a hoop and alighted again upon the saddle. Another individual made a horse stand up and dance on his hind legs; beside which there was an iron cage produced, larger than an ordinary room, which was rolled upon wheels into the arena, and in which five lions were confined. Their roaring boomed in the ear like the reverberation of a deep-toned bell. A man entered the cage and engaged in combat with these beasts, using a sword and rapier, and discharging a fire-arm. The angry roaring of the lions made every spectator hold his breath. 18th. Left the hotel about eight o'clock, and set off by train. After a journey of 210 miles, arrived by one o'clock at the port of Boulogne, where we embarked on board a steamer for a sea-transit of some 25 miles, arriving about 4 P.M. at the British port of Dover. Taking train again, travelled a further distance of 84 miles, and at 7 P.M. entered our hotel in London, the English capital. 19th. Mr. Hart, the Inspector-General of [Chinese] Customs, came to see me, and during the day also received visits from Messrs. Dick, Hughes, and Hannen, of the Customs service, who spoke of the vast population of London, exceeding 3,000,000 souls, and of the insular position of the country, owing to which an army of some 100,000 men, and a navy numbering no more than 60,000 seamen, are sufficient for defensive purposes; quite unlike France, whose frontier on three sides adjoins that of neighbouring countries. In France, accordingly, a larger army is required, and in case of war some hundreds of thousands of men can be put in the field. The metropolis is fifteen miles in diameter, with a densely crowded population. The houses and other buildings present a fine appearance, and are, for the most part, four or five stories in height. The streets are clean, and absolutely thronged with vehicles and foot-passengers. Of all cities of the West, this is by far the largest capital. The uniform of the military seen in the streets is a red coat and black trousers, perfect neatness prevailing in every part of their attire and equipments. The horses they ride are of imposing size. Each man patrols his chinery, without manual labour, a process beat unceasingly, with his weapon in his singularly skilful and effective. band. * 24th. Went to have my likeness taken. In the afternoon called upon the Secretary of Foreign Affairs, Lord Clarendon, and upon Mr. Hammond. Later, went to see an Academy, where the portraits, figures, and landscapes exhibited display singular excellence in the art. The European newspapers have had the report as far back as two months ago that a Chinese commissioner was on his way, and numbers of persons consequently ask to see me and to have my likeness. At the establishment where I was photographed in Paris, crowds of people strove to get copies, and I am told that as much as fifteen francs were paid for a copy of the portrait. It has already been a source of great profit to the artist, just as with us, fans from the hand of a noted painter are sought after. 25th. Cloudy. Visited the great gardens [at Kew], where there are azaleas more than ten feet in height, and roses also as high as five or six feet, covered with blossoms, in vast profusion, forming a rich display of varied colour and fragrance. I was told that plants brought from China are tended here with care and successfully propagated. In general, the abundance and beauty of the floral display excels everything of the kind in Europe. The artificial water here is very fine, and the glass-houses and aviaries a most rare sight. In the evening went to the Tea Gardens [Cremorne] and saw theatrical displays, divinely wonderful beyond conception. 26th. Visited the Custom-house, where the annual receipts, I learn, amount to 26,000,000l. sterling. Also visited the teawarehouses, containing three million chests of tea, all showing Chinese marks, beside one million barrels of wine, stored in underground vaults. These vaults are of great extent, and we burnt out ten or more candles before our visit was over. The atmosphere is powerfully impregnated with vinous exhalations, yielding an agreeable perfume to the senses. If Yuan Tseiht could be brought hither he would certainly exclaim: "Bury me here when I die, and spare yourselves the trouble of following me with a mattock!" Also visited the Mint, where gold, silver, and copper are coined by ma * Exhibition of the Royal Academy. Yuan T-ih i one of the seven wine-bibbing worthies of Chinese history and romance. He died A.D. 263. As the professor of an epicurean philosophy, which ridiculed the formal ceremonies of the prevailing orthodoxy, he was accustomed to say, Let me die drinking, and shovel me into my grave!" Trans. 27th. Travelled into the country by train in a north-westerly direction, accomplishing a distance of thirty miles in three-quarters of an hour, to visit a camp of instruction [Aldershot]. Called upon the General in command, and afterwards witnessed divers military exercises. The soldiers' quarters occupy an area some three miles around, and 8,000 men are stationed here. The musketry practice and manœuvres were executed with uniform precision. In the afternoon, lunched with the General. 28th. Visited the Zoological Gardens, and had a sight of tigers, leopards, bears, lions, elephants, serpents, dragons, and denizens of the waters,- in fact, every kind of creature, with strange birds and monstrous fishes, such as, in truth, eye hath not seen nor ear heard." This is considered the most extensive menagerie in existence. 66 31st. Was invited to-night by the Minister of State, Earl Russell, to present myself to his lady, who was very gracious. There was a large gathering of ladies of rank and distinction, filling the rooms with gorgeous apparel. Some of the ladies played upon the piano and sang, making the air resound with vocal music, the effect of which was very pleasing. Methought Tung Shwang-ch'êng had descended from the halls of fairy-land and come to London. June 1st. Cloudy, and a slight drizzle. Visited the ancient cathedral [Westminster Abbey], which rises to a height of 120 feet, supported by pillars of stone and vaulted arches of immense height. The workmanship is of the most elaborate kind, but it has suffered much from the ravages of time during its existence of upwards of 1,000 years. The ancient sovereigns and statesmen are interred within this edifice, and are represented by lifelike effigies in stone. About 4 P.M. visited the Houses of Parliament (lit.: the hall of public deliberation), an edifice lofty and magnificent beyond compare. The various districts of the country elect 600 persons to deliberate [here] on public affairs. In the evening went to the theatre. The performance was inconceivably marvellous. June 2nd. This morning visited Woolwich, eight miles distant to the south-west, where the brother of General Gordon is superintendent of the Arsenal, which he incial residence, and composed a couple of vited me to inspect. Lunched at his offisonnets in pentameter during the repast. This is the name of one of the fairy attendants of Si Wang Mu, the Titania of the Chinese. Trans. 4th. A fine day. Visited what is called all separately arranged, and among the the Palace of Crystal, lying eight miles number I noticed a volume of botanical south of the metropolis. The palace stands drawings, and a fan inscribed with three on a hill, in a very lofty situation, and con- heptameter stanzas from the poems entitled sists in two great halls, two-thirds of a mile Liu Hiang Tseih, both of which I recoghigh and a mile in breadth.* There is a nized as Chinese. The walls of the palace tower at either end, that on the north being are hung with paintings by celebrated maseleven stories in height, and 400 feet in al- ters, and in richness and elegance of its titude. The whole is constructed of glass, furniture and decorations it stands at the and when seen from a distance it glitters head of everything in the West. The park like one mass of crystal. In the interior, embraces an area of ten miles in circuit, the dwellings and architecture of various and the honour was done me of placing a countries are represented, with effigies of carriage and horses from the royal stables at their respective inhabitants and birds and my disposal for a drive through the domain. beasts. The director of the palace did the Some of the trees are of stupendous size, honours and led me through the whole and are more than a century old. The place, and supplied me, besides, with a prospect is diversified by gently undulating small carriage to obviate the necessity of hills, and by winding rivulets and streams, walking. Within and without, brightness amid which the belling of the deer is heard reigns on every side; and from the balco- mingling with a flood of melody from feathnies a view extending over twenty miles of ered songsters. The most delicate and excountry is obtained. I was next invited to quisite kinds of flowers are cultivated in the building where guests are entertained glass houses, with windows which may be a smaller, three-storied edifice, elegantly opened and shut at pleasure to guard them fitted-up. The arcade leading to it is com- against the effects of wind or sun. The pletely closed in with glass, and the cov- superintendent of the gardens informed me ered ways surrounding [the house] were that in consequence of the coldness of the gay with purple creepers in full bloom. climate this precaution is necessary, and The peonies and azaleas were larger than without it the plants would be killed by those in China; and besides these flowers a frosts. Taking a walk inside this building variety of other plants were scattered here I was charmed by the rich di play of colour and there, forming, with the verdure with and gratified by the subtle perfumes exhaled which the ground was carpeted, a lovely around. Among the flowers which I recombination of divers hues. A lady of cognized were specimens of the Cydonia fered us refreshments (lit.: tea and wine), Japonica, some two or three feet in height, and brought out books of pictures for our of most symmetrical beauty. The red and inspection. Our reception here was exceed-white camellias resembling those grown in ingly hospitable. the province of Kiangsi, the roses, azaleas, 5th. Cloudy. At 10 A.M. set out by rail peonies, tulips, &c., were all double the for Windsor Castle, the Queen's country palace, about seventeen miles off. The edited the fruit-houses, which are similarly ifice is lofty and of great extent; it is said, indeed, to contain 3,600 (?) separate apartments and is, in all, of three stories in height. It may well be said, therefore, to be a structure of "broad halls and countless chambers." A custodian of the palace acted as our guide throughout the various apartments, which contain a great abundance of precious objects. I noticed a vase of green jade-stone,† six or seven feet in height, covered with the richest veinings, resembling the plumage of a peacock, and dazzlingly lustrous. This I was told was a present from the sovereign of Russia. It does not yield the palm, in good sooth, to the "coral branch seven feet long." Beside this, various rooms are set apart for precious articles from different countries, Some confusion seems to exist here between the palace and the hill on which it stands. Trans. † Malachite is probably meant. - Trans. size of what we have in China. I also vis constructed. Here some score o: more of buildings are occupied with peaches, plums, and almonds, beside graperies. In all these places, it appears, hot water is laid on in brass pipes, which maintain an equable warmth in the building, resembling the temperature which prevails in China towards the end of spring. Of the fruit-trees, some were just flowering, others only just in bud, some with the fruit formed, and others again in full bearing, thus providing, as I was informed, a constant succession of fruit for use as required. A bunch of purple grapes was plucked for me, the clustering fruit of which equalled birds' eggs in size, but fully ripe, and of most exquisite flavour. In the stables (I saw) the royal horses, some of which stand eight feet in height. There are also eight small carriage-ponies, resembling the ponies of the west of China, which are driven by the Queen herself. |lowing our guide, we passed through one The high carriage in which I was driven room after another, until at length we whirled along with the rapidity of lightning, reached the ball-room. The size of this and in a couple of hours I had traversed every corner of the domain. I was reminded of the verse in Li Ch'ang-ke's poems, where he says: In the favouring airs of Spring, swift my courser speeds his way! All the blooming sights of Ch'ang-ngan* I will witness in a day! tions left not a moment's leisure. apartment is about fifty or sixty feet* in breadth by more than one hundred in length. It is, moreover, upwards of fifty feet in height. From the ceiling, and on with glass shades, to the number of 8,560 all sides of the room, there are hung lamps (?) burners altogether. Of late years, the Queen has held but few I also visited the great college (Eton), consort have been commissioned to disreceptions, and the heir-apparent and bis where the director of studies invited me to charge on her behalf the courtesies of State partake of refreshments. On returning in entailed by foreign intercourse. There the evening, I dined by invitation with the were present at court this evening four hunMarquis (or Earl) M—, at his public dred of the nobility and high functionaries residence, where a feast of the most recherché of the Government, besides eight or nine character was given; and towards midnight hundred ladies of rank and position. The I proceeded to the same nobleman's private Prince and Princess sat facing the south, residence, where a great gathering of ladies, with seats arranged on either side of them, not less than from one to two hundred, was in three gradations. All the guests in atassembled. The lady [of the house] was tendance may stand or sit down as they stationary in the midst of a forest of gor- please. I had a place opposite together geously apparelled guests, and the introduc- with my companions. A band was stationed in a gallery, and the male and female guests 6th. Early this morning an officer of the went through some ten or a dozen dances. palace sent a card stating he was com- Officers of the army were in scarlet uniforms, manded by the Queen to invite [us] to a and civilians in black coats, in all cases State ball and banquet, specifying half-past ornamented with gold embroidery. The ten o'clock P. M. as the time. The officers ladies wore dresses of a variety of colours, accompanying me and the interpreters were red, green, &c., with bare shoulders, arms, to go also, and dresses of ceremony were and bosoms. They wore clusters of jewels worn [by the interpreters] with swords, and diamonds upon their heads a gorOur preparations were not completed until geous array of ornament literally dazzling evening, and at the appointed time we pro-to the sight! This spectacle is the ne plus ceeded together to the palace. On alight- ultra of elegance, luxury, and abundance! ing from our carriage at the gateway we At midnight the Prince and Princess left saw some hundred or more of troops under their seats and repaired to another saloon, arms, and drawn up in rank. They were when the whole assemblage stood still, all dressed in scarlet. After passing through forming ranks on either side. Shortly afterthe doorway we discerned a line of officers, wards a palace official brought word that drawn up, erect and motionless, holding the Prince had invited me to see him, and I halberds in their hands. At each doorway forthwith went [to be introduced]. The four of these were stationed. After enter- Prince and Princess both stood up, and put ing, and turning to the left, we traversed a questions to me, such as - What did I long corridor, making four or five turns. think of the appearance of this country? The whole was flooded with a blaze of light, It was a pity China is so far off, so that the marble pavements richly carpeted, and travelling backward and forward is not both sides of the staircase lined with floweasy; had I enjoyed a comfortable voyage? ering plants in bloom, the perfume from Was I pleased with my visit to the Royal which impregnated the entire atmosphere. park yesterday? The Princess asked me The lamps shone with such splendour that how the climate of China was in comparison not a nook or cranny was left unilluminated. with that of England; and whether I had The flight of stairs we ascended numbered been pleased with the places I had seen. more than a hundred steps, and was crowded To all these questions I made answer, in with a continuous stream of ladies of rank addition to which I also said: - "Envoys proceeding to the presence-chamber. It is from China have never as yet reached your the ceremonial usage that a court is held by the Queen twice during each month. Fol One of the most celebrated among the ancient capitals of China. — - Trans. If the writer is reckoning by Chinese measurement, this passage should read, "seventy or eighty feet," as the chang of ten Chinese feet is equal to fourteen feet English. - Trans. honourable country; and now having been ordained to travel abroad, I have learnt for the first time that such beautiful lands exist beyond our seas. Moreover, by the extremely gracious welcome accorded to me by the Queen and your Royal Highness, I feel honoured in an unparalleled measure." Hereupon the Prince and Princess, both smiling, permitted me to withdraw, for the purpose of proceeding to the banquetingroom, where a profusion of costly wines and elegant viands was laid out. The servitors of the entertainment, decked in gold lace, carried trays about, moreover, and handed refreshments to the guests. I almost fancied I had been transported bodily to the Lake of Gems in heaven, that the crowd around me were the golden-armoured Gods, or the Immortals of fairy-land,* and that I had bid farewell to the world below! A message came shortly with the Queen's commands that I should repair to the palace on the following afternoon to be presented to her Majesty. It was near morning when I got back to the hotel. to me by the Queen, through which I had been enabled to enjoy the sight of her beautiful domains. The Queen deigned to reply saying that she hoped after my return to China, on the termination of my travels, the concord and amity prevailing between the two countries might be still further increased. I bowed profoundly, testifying my homage, and withdrew. I cannot help feeling that for a mere traveller like myself to have been favoured with repeated manifestations of courtesy, and to have had an interview vouchsafed and condescending expressions addressed to me, is an honour of the very highest degree. 8th. Cloudy. Left the hotel at halfpast 9 A.M., and at 10 o'clock took the train and travelled sixty miles northward to Oxford, where I visited several great colleges. An elegant luncheon was laid before us; and at 3 P.M. we went on to Birmingham, another journey of sixty miles. It is the custom in England for each town to elect an individual as director of the local affairs, like the "prefects" in our own ancient sys Y, occupying the office in question, who, having heard I was to visit the place, received me with great attention, invited me to dinner, and accompanied me on a tour through all the manufacturing establishments. 7th. A fine day. At about 3 P.M. I ar-tem. There was here a [gentleman] named rived at the palace gateway. Guards were drawn up inside and out the same as last evening, with the addition of a band numbering some scores of performers, clad in scarlet uniforms. A palace official, decorated with gold lace, led me to an apartment where I seated myself to await the summons 13th. Arrived at London at 5 A.M. The to the Royal presence. At three o'clock streets begin to be familiar, and on returning several officers of the Household made their to our previous lodgings in Cha-urh-sze Szeappearance, and led me through one door ti-li-ti (Charles Street), the landlady of the after another into the presence-chamber. (United) Hotel and the attendants all welThe Queen was standing facing the door-comed us like old acquaintances. The way, and on entering the apartment I drew flowers in the vases looked smilingly at the myself up in a respectful attitude, and of guests, and the bird in its cage chirruped fered an expression of homage (lit.: of its note of recognition. Truly is it said in grateful feelings). The Queen asked me Tu Yew's poems: how long I had been in this country - how I liked what I had seen, everything being so different from the manners and customs of China. I replied, saying that I had already been here a fortnight, and that in what I had seen of the buildings of London, and the various kinds of machinery in use, the skill and excellence of workmanship displayed were in advance of China, whilst, in respect to matters of government and administration, I had found much to admire. I added that I felt honoured beyond measure by the gracious treatment vouchsafed In the above complimentary outburst, the narrator ingeniously combines the various Chinese and Buddhist legendary ideas of celestial magnificence into one picture. The Lake of Gems is the fabled abode of the "Queen of the Fairies," Si Wang Mu: the golden-armoured Gods are the attendants of India in the Buddhist pantheon; whilst the immor tals are part of the Taoist mythology. Trans. K'iuan ying tsêng suh k’êh. (The dog goes forth to greet the stranger who has once slept in the house). Our rooms are on the third story, and are tolerably lofty and airy. The dining-room is an elegantly furnished apartment, different from the one we first occupied. This hotel ranks as one of the second class, yet it is five stories in height, with some dozens of rooms on each floor. At night, it is brilliantly illuminated, not a single landing or winding gallery left unprovided with a flood of light, which is continued throughout the whole night. There are some ten or more large dining-rooms, and upwards of 130 bedrooms. In every apartment there is a means of communication for summoning attendants fixed on the wall. By pressing this with the finger, it is made known im |