making the acquaintance of the Altgräfin | national movement in Bohemia are of in Florence, and I am very glad to have German origin, and do not even speak the an opportunity of meeting her husband, a language they wish to be made official. member of Parliament very deeply inter- The Hapsburg dynasty, our capital, our ested in the Tscheko-German question. civilization, the initiative and persistent He belongs to the Austrian Liberal party, perseverance to which Austria owes its and severely blames Taaffe's policy, and creation -are not all these Germanic? the alliance that the feudal party, and es- In Hungary, German, the language of our pecially members of his own and of his emperor, is forbidden; it is excluded also wife's families, have concluded with the in Galicia, in Croatia, and will soon be so ultra-Tscheks. "Their aim is," he says, also in Carinthia, in Transylvania, and in "to obtain the same situation for Bohemia Bohemia. The present policy is perilous as for Hungary. The emperor would go in every respect. It is deeply wounding to Prague to receive the crown of St. to the German element, which is nothing Wenceslas. An autonomous government less than the enlightened classes, comwould be re-established in Bohemia under merce, money - the power, in fact, of the direction of a Diet, as in Hungary. modern times. If autonomy is estab The empire would become triune instead lished in Bohemia, it will deliver over the of dual. Save for questions common to clergy and the aristocracy to the Tschek all, the three States would be independent democrats and Hussites." of each other, united only in the person of the sovereign. Such an arrangement answered admirably in the Middle Ages, when it was usual; but at the present day, when we are surrounded on all sides by great united powers, as France, Russia, Prussia, and Italy, it is senseless to advocate it. I admit of federation for small neutral States like Switzerland, or for a large country embracing an entire continent, like the United States; but I consider that for Austria, situated, as she is, in the heart of Europe, exposed on all sides to complications and to the greed and envyings of her many neighbors, it would be absolute perdition. My good friends of the feudal party, supported by the clergy, hope that when autonomy is established in Bohemia, and the country is completely withdrawn from the influ ence of the Liberals of the central parliament, they themselves will be the masters there, and the former order of things will be reset on foot. I think they make a very great mistake. I believe that when the Tscheks have attained the end they have in view, they will turn against their present allies. They are at heart all democrats, varying in shade from pale pink to bright scarlet; but all will band together against the aristocracy and the clergy, and will make common cause with the German population of our towns, who are almost all Liberals. The country inhabitants would also in a great measure join them, and thus the aristocracy and the clergy would be inevitably vanquished. If necessary the ultra-Tscheks would call up the memories of John Huss and of Ziska, to ensure the triumph of their party. Strange to say," he continues, "the majority of the old families heading the 66 "All that you say," I answer, "is perfectly clear. I can offer but one objection, which is that from time to time in the affairs of humanity certain irresistible currents are to be met with. They are so irresistible that nothing subdues them, and any impediment in their way merely serves to increase their force. The nationality movement is one of these. See what a prodigious re-awakening! One might almost compare it to the resurrection of the dead. Idioms buried hitherto in darkness spring forth into light and glory. What was the German language in the eighteenth century, when Frederick boasted that he ignored it, and prided himself on writing French as perfectly as Voltaire? True, it was Luther's language; yet it was not spoken by the upper and educated classes. Forty years ago, what was the Hungarian tongue? The despised dialect of the pastors of the Puzta. German was the only language spoken in good society and in government offices, and, at the Diet, Latin. At the present day the Magyar dialect is the language of the press, of the parliament, of the theatre, of science, of academies, of the university, of poetry, and of fiction; henceforth the recognized and exclusive official language, it is imposed even upon the inhabitants of Croatia or Transylva nia, who have no wish for it. Tschek is gradually securing for itself the same place in Bohemia as Magyar has attained in Hungary. A similar phenomenon is taking place in Croatia, the dialect there, formerly merely a popular patois, now possesses a university at Agram, poets and philologists, a national press and a theatre. The Servian tongue, which is merely Croatian written in Cyrillic char Quivi sospiri, pianti ed alti guai acters, has become the official, literary, instead of a State, a mere collection of parliamentary, and scientific language of dissolving views. Do you recollect Servia. It is in precisely the same posi- Dante's lines? tion as its elder brothers, French and German, in their respective countries. It is the same for the Bulgarian idiom in Bulgaria and Roumelia, for the Roumanian in Roumania, for Polish in Galicia, for Finn in Finland, and soon also in Flanders, where, as elsewhere, the literary reawakening precedes political claims. With a constitutional government, the nationality party is sure to triumph, because there is a constant struggle between the political opponents as to which shall make the most concessions in order to secure votes for themselves. This has been also the case in Ireland. Tell me, do you think it possible that any govern ment would be able to suppress so deeply grounded, so universal a movement, whose root is in the very heart of long-enslaved races, and which must fatally develop as what is called modern civilization progresses? What is to be done, then, to quell this irresistible pressing forward of races all claiming their place in the sun shine? Centralize and compress them, as Schmerling and Bach tried to do? It is too late for that now. The only thing is to make compromises with these divers nationalities, as Count Taaffe is trying to do, being careful, at the same time, to protect the rights of the minority." "But," answers the Altgraf, "in Bohemia we Germans are in a minority, the Tscheks could crush us mercilessly.' The following day I call on M. de V., an influential Conservative member of Parliament. He appears to me even more distressed than Count Salm. "An Aus trian of the old school, a sincere black and yellow," I am, "and even," says M. de V., "what you call in your extraordinary Lib. eral jargon, a Reactionist. My attachment to the imperial family is absolute, as being the common centre of all parties in the State. I am attached to Count Taaffe, because he is the representative of Conservative principles; but I deplore his federalistic policy, which, if pursued, will certainly lead to the disintegration of the empire. My audacity even goes so far as to declare that Metternich was a clever man. Our good friends, the Italians, reproach him with having said that Italy is a mere geographical expression. But of our empire, which he made so powerful, and, on the whole, so happy, not even that will be left, if this system of chopping it into pieces be followed much longer. It will become a kaleidoscope "This is the state of things that is being prepared for us. You would hardly, perhaps, believe that this mania is now so violently raging that the Germans in Bohemia, dreading the future power of the Tscheks, have requested autonomy for that portion of the country where they are in a majority. On the other hand, the Tscheks would never suffer the division of their realm of St. Wenceslas, so this is another cause of quarrel. This struggle of races is but a return to barbarous ages. You are a Belgian and I an Austrian; could we not therefore agree to manage a business or direct an institution together?""Of course," I reply. "When a certain degree of culture is attained, the important point is conformity of feeling rather than a common language, but at the outset, language is the means of arriving at intellectual culture. The motto of one of our Flemish societies affirms this most energetically: De taal is gauseh het volk (Language is everything for a people'). In my opinion, reason and virtue are the important points, but without language and letters there can be no progress in civilization.” I take note of a curious little incident, which showed how exceedingly bitter this animosity of races has become. The Tscheks of Vienna, who number about thirty thousand, requested a grant from the town council to assist them to found a school, where the instruction would be given in their language. The rector of of the university of that city spoke in favor of this request at the meeting of the council. The students of the Tschek University of Prague, apprised of this, forwarded him a vote of thanks; but in what language? Not in Tschek, the rector would not have understood a word; nor in German, the language of the oppressors; in French, as being a foreign idiom and neutral everywhere. The vote — certainly very justifiable of the rector in favor of a Tschek school in Vienna, was so highly disapproved of by his colleagues that he was forced to resign his post. I go next to see Baron von Neumann, one of the pillars of our Institute of International Law. Besides his vast legal knowledge he possesses the precious fac- | Salonica-Nitrovitza branch at Uskub or at ulty of speaking all European languages Varosch. The line is to run along the with equal facility, and has also at his dis- upper Morava by Lescovatz and Vraina. posal a treasure of quotations from the The latter town can then be easily con most varied literature. In the different nected with Varosch on the Salonica line, towns in which the Institute has met, he the distance between these two places has replied to the authorities appointed to being quite trifling. This branch line, receive us in their own language, and gen- which will be quickly terminated, is of erally as fluently as a native. Baron Neu- capital importance. It will be the nearmann takes me to the university of which est route to Athens, and even to Egypt he is one of the chief ornaments. It is and the extreme East; and will ultimately, situated quite near the cathedral, and is a in all probability, beat not only Marseilles very ancient building, which will shortly but Brindisi. The other section of the be abandoned for the sumptuous edifice line, from Nisch to Sofia and Constantiin course of construction on the Ring. Inople, presents great difficulties. In the am introduced to Professor Lorenz von Stein, author of the best work that has ever been written on Socialism, "Der Socialismus in Frankreich," and also of several works on public law and political economy, which are very highly considered in Germany. I am also very pleased to make the acquaintace of my youthful colleague, M. Schleinitz, who has just published an important work on the development of landed property. Baron Neumann transmits me a letter from Baron Kállay, the financial minister, appointing an interview with me before I leave; but I see first M. de Serres, the director of the Austrian railways, who will be able to give me some details as to the connection between the Hungarian and Servian and the Ottoman lines: a question of the very first importance for the future of the East, and which I had promised myself to study. The Austrian Railway Companies' offices are in a palace on the Place Schwarzenberg, the finest part of the Ring. Their interior arrangements are quite in keeping with the outside appearance. Immense white marble staircases, spacious and comfortable offices, and the furniture in the reception-rooms all velvet and gold. What a contrast between this modern luxury and the simplicity of the ministerial offices! It is the symbol of a serious economic revolution. Industry takes priority of politics. M. de Serres spreads out a map of the railway system on the table. "See," he says, "this is the direct line from Pesth to Belgrade; it crosses the Danube at Peterwardein and the Save at Semlin; it was necessary therefore to construct two immense bridges, the piles of which have been constructed by the Fives-Lille Company. The BelgradeNisch section will be very soon inaugurated. At Nisch there will be a bifurca tion of two lines, one continues to Sofia and the other, branching off, joins the first place, the pass through which the Nischava flows before reaching Pirot is so wild, narrow, and savage, as to challenge the skill of our engineers. Then, after leaving Pirot, the line must rise over some of the last heights of the Balkans to reach the plain of Sofia; the rocks here, too, are very bad. Beyond, on the high plateau, there will be no difficulty, and a line was half completed by the Turks ten years ago, between Sofia and Sarambay (the terminus of their system); fifteen or sixteen months would suffice to finish it. To be brief, this year we shall be able to go by rail all through Servia as far as Nisch. A year later, if no time be lost, we shall reach Salonica, and, two years afterwards, Constantinople." I thanked M. de Serres for all these interesting details. "The completion of these lines,” I said, “will be an event of capital interest for the Eastern world. It will be the signal for an economic transformation far otherwise important than political combinations, and will hasten the accomplishment of an inevitable result — the development and the supremacy of the dominant races. Your Austrian railways and Hungary will be the first to benefit, but very soon the whole of Europe will share the advantages which will accrue from the civilizing of the Balkan peninsula." I call after this on Baron Kállay. I am very pleased to have an opportunity of seeing him, for I am told on all sides that he is one of the most distinguished statesmen of the empire. He is a pure Mag. yar, descended from one of Arpad's com. panions, who came to Hungary towards the close of the ninth century. They must have been a careful and thrifty family, for they have been successful in retaining their fortune, an excellent precedent for a financial minister. When quite young, Kállay displayed an extraordinary taste for learning, and he was anxious to know everything; he worked very hard at the Slavand Eastern languages and translated Stuart Mill's "Liberty" into Magyar, and for his literary labor he obtained the honor of being nominated a member of the Hungarian Academy. of a section in the Foreign Office. He published his history of Servia in Hungarian; it has since been translated into German and Servian, and even at Belgrade it is admitted to be the best that exists. He also published about this time Having failed to be elected deputy in an important pamphlet in German and 1866, he was appointed consul-general at Hungarian, on the aspirations of Russia Belgrade, which post he held for eight in the East during the past three centu years. This period was not lost to sci-ries. Under the Chancellor Haymerlé he ence, for he spent it in collecting matter became secretary of state, and his authorfor a history of Servia. In 1874 he wasity increased rapidly. Count Szlavy, forelected deputy in the Hungarian Diet and merly Hungarian minister, a very capable took his place on the Conservative bench- | man, but with little acquaintance with the es, now the Moderate Left. He started a countries beyond the Danube, was then newspaper, the Kelet Nepe, ("The People financial minister; and, as such, was the of the East"), in which he depicted the sole administrator of Bosnia. The occupart Hungary ought to play in eastern pation was a total failure. It entailed Europe. immense expense, the taxes were not paid into the exchequer, it was said that the money was detained by the government officials as during the reign of the Turks, and both the Trans-Leithanian and CisLeithanian Parliaments showed signs of discontent. Szlavy resigned his post. The emperor very rightly thinks an immense deal of Bosnia. It is his hobby, his special interest. During his reign Venetian Lombardy has been lost, and his kingdom, consequently, diminished. Bosnia is a compensation for this, and possesses the great advantage of adjoining Croatia, so that it could easily be absorbed into the empire; whereas, with the Italian provinces, this was totally impossible. The emperor then looked around him for the man capable of setting Bosnian affairs in order, and at once selected Kállay, who was appointed to replace Szlavy. It will be remembered that when the Turko-Russian war broke out, followed by the occupation of Bosnia in 1876, the Magyars were most vehement in their manifestations of sympathy with the Turks, and the opposition was most violent in attacking the occupation. The Hunga. rians were so bitterly hostile to this movement, because they thought it would be productive of an increase in the number of the Slav inhabitants in the empire. Even the government party were so convinced of the unpopularity of Andrassy's policy that they durst not openly support it. Just at this time Kállay took upon himself to defend it in the House. He told his party that it was senseless to favor the Turkish cause. He proved clearly that the occupation of Bosnia was a necessity, even from a Hungarian point of view; because this State forms a corner separating Servia from Montenegro, and thus being in the hands of Austria-Hungary, prevents the formation of an important Slav State which might exercise an irresistible attraction on the Croatians, who are of the same race and speak the same language. He explained his favorite projects, and spoke of the commercial and civilizing mission of Hungary in the East. This attitude of a man who knew the Balkan peninsula by heart, and had deeply studied all the questions referring to it, was most irritating to many members of his party, who continued for some little time Turcophile; but the speech produced a profound impression on the nation in general, and public opinion was considerably modified. Baron Kállay was designated by Count Andrassy as the Austrian representative in the commission on Roumelian affairs, and, on his return to Vienna, he was appointed chief He The first act of the new minister was personally to visit the occupied province of which he speaks all the varied dialects, and to converse with the Catholics, Orthodox, and Mahommedans there. thus succeeded in reassuring Turkish landholders, in encouraging the peasantry to patience, in reforming abuses and turning the thieves out of the temple. Expenses became at once reduced and the deficit diminished, but the undertaking might well be compared to the cleansing of the Augean stables. Baron Kállay employed great tact and consideration, coupled with relentless firmness. To be able to set a clock in thorough order it is necessary to be perfectly acquainted with its mechanism. Last year he was warned that a tiny cloud was appearing in Montenegro. A fresh insurrection was dreaded. He started at once to ascertain the exact position of affairs for himself, and he took his wife with him to give his visit a non-official character. Lady Kállay is as | there, fully to realize the hindrances to intelligent as she is beautiful, and as cour- be met with at every step. For instance, ageous as intelligent; this latter is indeed the Turkish law constitutes the State the a family quality: Countess Bethlen, she owner of all forests, and I am especially is descended from the hero of Transyl- desirous of retaining rights on these for vania, Bethlen Gabor. Their journey the purpose of preserving them; on the through Bosnia would form the subject of other hand, in accordance with a Slav a poem. While on his way from ovation custom, the villagers claim certain rights to ovation, he succeeded in stamping out on the forests. If they merely cut the the lighted wick which was about to set wood they needed for household purposes, fire to the powder. Since then, it appears, only slight harm would be done; but they matters there have continued to improve; ruthlessly cut down trees, and then turn at all events, the deficit has disappeared, in their goats who eat and destroy the the emperor is delighted, and every one young shoots, so that there is never any tells me that if Austria succeed in retain- chance of the old trees being replaced. ing Bosnia she will certainly owe it to These wretched animals are the plague of Kállay, and that a most important role is the country. Wherever they manage to assuredly reserved for him in the future penetrate, nothing is to be found but administration of the empire.. He believes brushwood. in a great destiny for Hungary, but he is "As the preservation of these woods is by no means an ultra-Magyar. He is pru- of the first necessity in so mountainous a dent, thoughtful, and is well aware of the region we intend to pass a law to this end, quagmires by the way. His Eastern ex- but the difficulty will be to enforce it. It perience is of great service to him. I call would almost necessitate an army of keepon him at his offices, in a little narrowers, and constant struggles in every direcstreet and on the second floor. The tion. What is really lacking in this fine wooden staircase is dark and narrow. I country so favored by nature is a gentry cannot help comparing it in my mind to who would set an example of agricultural the magnificent palace of the railway com- progress, as in Hungary. I will give you pany, and I must confess my preference an example in proof of this. As a boy I for this. I am astonished to find him so remember that a very heavy, old-fashioned young; he is but forty-three years old. plough was used on our land. In 1848, The old empire used to be governed by compulsory labor was abolished, wages old men, but this is no longer the case. increased, and we had to cultivate ourYouth has now the upper hand, and is re-selves. We at once sent for the most sponsible, doubtless, for the present firm and decisive policy of Austria-Hungary. The Hungarians hold the reins, and their blood has preserved the ardor and decision of youthful people. It seemed to me that I breathed in Austria an air of revival. perfected American iron ploughs, and at the present day these alone are employed even by the peasants. Austria has a great mission to fulfil in Bosnia, which will in all probability benefit general Europe even more than ourselves. She must, by civilizing the country, justify her occupation of it." Baron Kállay spoke to me first of the zadrugas, the family communities which existed everywhere in India, as has so "For myself," I replied, "I have always well been shown by Sir Henry Maine. maintained, in opposition to my friends "Since you published your book on the English Liberals, that the annexation primitive property " (which was, he says, of Bosnia and Herzegovina to Dalmatia at the time perfectly accurate), “ many was a necessity, and I fully explained this changes have taken place the patri- at a period when the question was not at archal family living on its collective and all under discussion, but the essential unalienable domain is rapidly disappear. ing. I regret this quite as much as you can do, but what can be done?" "It is absolutely necessary for Dalmatia to become connected with Bosnia. As a Montenegrin guide one ,,day remarked to Miss Muir Mackenzie, Dalmatia Speaking of Bosnia, "We are blamed," he says, "for not having yet settled the agrarian question there, but Ireland is sufficient proof of the difficulties to be met with in solving such problems. In Bosnia these are further complicated by the conflict between the Mussulman and our Western laws. One must be on the spot and study these vexed questions without Bosnia is like a face without a head, and liosnia without Dalmatia is a head without a face. There and the inland villages, the former with their fine names being no communication between the Dalmatian ports are but unimportant little towns stripped of all their former splendor. For instance, Ragusa, formerly an independent republic, has a population of six thousand inhabitants; Zara, nine thousand; Zebeniko, six thousand; and Cattaro, situated in the most lovely bay in Europe, and with a natural basin suficiently spacious to accommodate the navy of all Europe, has but two thousand and seventy-eight inhabitants. In several of |