press the fact:-further communicating to you] tate; and Dionysius, of Sicily, should not be that the rest runs as follows "It serves as a forest for troublesome little animals, that I suffer to roam there with impunity!" forgotten, who dared not to trust his beard to an operator, but was obliged to burn it when needful-an example of the misery of tyranny, which Cicero does not forget to moralize on. What are we to say to this? The world does not seem to be quite clear whether the When we look at the question, in its relaEmperor was joking or not. But in an ironi- tion to our own ancestry, we must not forget cal work, one is entitled to a good deal of li- the moustachio on the bust in the Townley cense, and Julian is to have the benefit of the marbles, which has been thought to represent doubt. It is true, indeed, that he is the great Caractacus. "The Britons," says Mr. Fairand standard specimen of the class of men holt,* "like the ancient Gauls, allowed their whose tendency is to attempt to restore exhaust- hair to grow thick on the head; and, although ed forms of life; and that there may have been they shaved their beards close on the chin, a certain affectation (if not, morbidity) in his wore immense tangled moustachios, which wish to possess a genuine, antique, philosophical sometimes reached to their breasts." The barba, or pogon. Yet, what then? Were moustachio and beard seem, indeed, to have "little animals" known to the primitive bar-gone generally together, in ancient times,—as ba? Even Death himself, who, according to we see them in the bust of Socrates. It may Burns, has a beard-for doesn't he make him be presumed, that the Northern nations felt say: put up your whittle, I wad na mind it, no that spittle, Death and Dr. Hornbook. -would not tolerate such inconvenience. Besides, we know, that the care of the ancient beard was an elaborate business; and the tonsor an important functionary. No, if Julian was negligent of his person, there is no probability that he carried matters so far as this. 66 the symbolic force of these appendages; we have a well-known passage in Tacitus about the Catti, who, he says, made a general custom of what among other German people was an affair of private daring-the letting the "crinem barbamque" grow till they had killed an enemy. Guizot, who sneers at "patriotisme germanique" for attaching too much immorals, will probably admit the correctness of portance to Tacitus's remark on German this part of his picture. We know, at all events, that the Saxons grew the beard; and everybody remembers the story of the observer from the Saxon camp at Hastings, who took the well-shaven Norman gentlemen for monks. Monks shaved, -"veluti mundo The East (except in the case of Egypt)* mortui "--but otherwise, the Church and the has been more consistently faithful to what beard were mostly in friendly relations. we have called the beard-tradition, than the North. The Arabs swear frequently by the tondent barbam,"-shave not, but clip the Apud Christianos clerici non radunt sed beard of the Prophet; and, we are told, beard-is the rule which we find laid down "make the preservation of their beards a by a learned Jesuit on the point. Yet, capital point of religion, because Mohammed councils have repressed huge beards in never cut his;" and the Turks (whose sense of personal dignity is so strong, and whose priests, and have ordered them to shave the pachas are among the best bred of mankind) sented by the moustachio to their partaking upper lip, so that no impediment may be precultivate the beard with great attention. of the holy chalice. ‡ "Among them, it is more infamous for any one to have his beard cut off, than among us to be publicly whipt, or branded with a hot iron. The slaves who serve in the seraglio have their beards shaven as a sign of their servitude." The late Mehemet Ali had a white and silvery beard; and Byron speaks of the "hoary lengthening beard" of Ali Pacha-another of the latest men of notable energy whom the East has produced. Indeed, there is something in the ornament calculated to become the face of king or poten curious reader may hunt for traces of the way quered England, were well-shaven, on the For all were shaven and shorn, But the tide turned again. A spring came; Fairholt's "Costume in England." † Laur. Beyerlinck, "Magnum Theatrum," etc. in voc. Barba. Ib. redeunt jam gramina campis, Arboribusque cOME. and Raphaelite painters-painters from the time of Cimabue and Giotto-have depicted their great men as bearded. When Holbein There was a revival during Henry I.'s reign, began to paint (coming over to England, with says Mr. Planché. In Edward II.'s " Beards a letter of introduction from Erasmus to Sir were worn apparently by persons in years, Thomas More, who kept him in his house, in great officers of State, and knights templars, Chelsea, for two years), he had many a noble but not generally," he observes. Sir John barba to depict, besides the well-known one Mandeville, the traveller, (who died A. D. of Sir Thomas himself; which he moved out 1372,) was called Sir John with the Beard of the way of the headsman's axe, because it (presumably from its size), and was as notable had never committed treason! Knox wore a in this as in other respects. But, indeed, in grand one, and Buchanan, and Cranmer, and Edward III.'s time-the hey-day of chivalry, Grindall, and Cardinal Pole. Indeed, a cerof feudal ornament, of love-poetry, of herald- tain "large and profuse beard" characterry-long beard and fine moustachio were in ized these great men. The beard of Harry honorable estimation. In an English Froissart the Eighth, we shall find celebrated in song. before us, illustrated with cuts taken from old The "great and energetic time" (as Goethe authorities, we find very noble faces gifted in calls it), of Harry's daughter, took up the trathis way. In Richard II.'s reign, the fashion dition. A gentleman who grew up to maturicontinued. The beard was "forked," Mr. ty (and such a maturity under its influPlanché notes, and "in all knightly effiges, ences, shall furnish us with a paragraph on the moustache is long and drooping on each the point. Listen to a passage from the autoside of the mouth." The venerable author- biography of Edward, Lord Herbert of Cherity of Chaucer now comes in; and what a bury:glimpse is this he gives us of his "Ship man; " Hardy he was, and wise I undertake, White was his berd as is forked beard. also A merchant was there, with a the dayesie; 66 My father was Richard Herbert, Esq., son to Edward Herbert, Esq., and grandchild to Sir Richard Herbert, Knight, who was a brook, in Monmouthshire, of all whom I shall younger son of Sir Richard Herbert, of Colesay a little; and first of my father, whom I remember to have been black-haired and BEARDER as all my ancestors of his side are said to have been!" A sober and well-governed gentleman (to use one of Lord Herbert's expressions) of Elizabeth's time, regulated his beard, as he did his dress, his mind, manners, or conduct. It was an index of his status or profession; an emblem of his feelings and tastes a symbol From this period to the culmination of Pogo-to be respected, like his coat-of-arms. Each notrophy, of beard-culture, in the triumphant class of mankind had its own form of the barba of the sixteenth century, beard and ornament. The Reformer cherished a large moustachio appear to have distinguished old and profuse one, obviously from its patriarchal men, soldiers, etc. The sixteenth century character, from the honor shown it in the Jewopens well; for it was in 1513 that James IV. ish days, from whose sentiment he drew his of Scotland presented that manly and bril- inspiration. The scholar, such as Buchanan liant figure which Scott has immortalized in (whose beard may be seen and admired in the the free and flowing lines of "Marmion : "portrait by Holbein), wore it-sometimes as one who followed Knox and Calvin, perhaps; but also, we may believe, not unmindful of the tradition of Socrates and the Roman patriarchs. † The gentleman adopted it as he adopted the other manners which he inherited;-respecting the "brass" of his ancestors in the parish church, honoring the example of the beard of Edward III. on his monument in Westminster, and the mustachio of the Black Prince on his effigy in Canterbury. When Gray wished to paint the characteristics of The monarch's form was middle size, His short curled beard and hair! The shortness and the curl probably, were calculated to charm the fair wife of Sir Hugh the Heron-even as the barbula of Young Rome delighted the Roman ladies. But the mighty spirits of that time, the men of the Reformation, revelled in those large and noble beards which characterize great ages, and periods of warmest faith! Pre-Raphaelite * Repton, on the Beard and Moustachio. † In early editions of the "Scaligerana," Joseph Scaliger has a very handsome one. that great-hearted age, what points did his | Showed like a stubble-land at harvest home; eyes seize ? Bottom. Well, I will undertake it. What beard were I best to play it in? Quince. Why, what you will. Bottom. I will discharge it in either your straw-colored beard, your orange-tawny beard, your purple-in-grain beard, or your Frenchcrown-color beard, your perfect yellow. A man gone insane in love could show his departure from a healthy condition no better than by sacrificing his beard, as appears in Much Ado about Nothing. He was perfumed like a milliner. Rosalind, describing to Orlando the marks of love, says― A lean cheek, which you have not a blue eye and sunken, which you have not: an unquestionable spirit, which you have not: a beard neglected, which you have not: but I pardon you for that, for simply your having no beard is a younger brother's revenue. And the same ever delightful Rosalind, does she not say, in the Epilogue ? If I were a woman, I would kiss as many of you as had beards that pleased me... and I am sure as many have good beards, or good faces, or sweet breaths, will, for my kind offer, when I make curtsy, bid me farewell. Every class, in fact, had its characteristic beard; and divines especially, of the Church of England, wore theirs "large and trimmed square." Such a square-cut beard was called the "cathedral beard," and was thought to become the grave face of a bishop. But we will now insert from the literature of this subject, the "Ballad of the Beard." which we extract from a little volume, called "Satirical Songs and Poems on Costume: from the 13th to the 19th Century," edited by Claudio. If he be not in love with some wonounced by that gentleman to be " Mr. Fairholt, for the Percy Society, and proman, there is no believing old signs: he brush"evidently eth his hat o' mornings; what should that bode? a production of the time of Charles I., if not Don Pedro. Hath any man seen him at the earlier." Here the reader may learn, on sound authority, the fashions of his ancestors in this matter; and, to our mind, there is no little spirit and point in the style in which they are dashed off: barber's? Claudio. No, but the barber's man hath been seen with him; and the old ornament of his cheek hath already stuffed tennis balls. Leonato. Indeed, he looks younger than he did by the loss of a beard. As for the brilliant Beatrice, her authority obviously settles in favor of the institution, though her wit threatens to singe the beard in the first instance : -Lord! I could not endure a husband with a beard on his face: I had rather lie in the woollen. Leon. You may light upon a husband that hath no beard. Beat. What should I do with him? dress him with my apparel, and make him my waiting gentle-woman? He that hath a beard is more than a youth; and he that hath no beard is less than a man .... Among the items of dandyism which made up the picture of the Swell whom Hotspur describes with such exquisite contempt, we must not forget one: -his chin new reap'd, But methinks I do itch to go thro' stitch, The needle-beard to amend, The soldier's beard doth march in, shear'd With which he'll make his enemies quake, But, oh! let us tarry, for the beard of King Harry The "beard of King Harry" is, indeed, a stately object in his portraits; and in most portraits of the leading men of Europe, from his time to that of Charles II., the beard is a conspicuous object. should an opportunity present itself. At all events, it cannot be doubted, that shaving in England is but two centuries old (a brief period in the annals of a historic nation), and that it then owed its introduction to mere temporary fashion-to the accidental state of the chin of a French king: Every one has admired on medallions and in portraits the beard of the renowned Henry IV. of France, which gave to the countenance of that prince a majestic dignity and openness, and which ought to serve as a model for every great king, as the beard of his illustrious minister should for that of every statesman. But there is little dependance on the stability of things of this world. By an event equally fatal and unforeseen, the beard, which had arrived at its highest degree of glory, all of a sudden lost its favor, and was at length entirely proscribed. The unexpected death of Henry the Great, and the youth of his successor, were the sole causes of this revolution. The hair, as we all know, played an important symbolic part in the Civil Wars; and the same rigor which the Puritan exercised on his head, he exercised on his chin, and trimmed his beard as closely as he trimmed his locks. The Vandyke beard is the typical one of this period, and is associated for ever with the melancholy face of Charles I. Peaked beards Louis XIII. mounted the throne of his gloriand moustachios were popular among the ous ancestors without a beard. Everyone concavaliers; and were at least pretty generally cluded immediately that the courtiers, seeing worn-till the Restoration, deriving its inspi-look upon their own as too rough; and the contheir young king with a smooth chin, would ration from the French Court, gave a blow to the cause which it never recovered from. duced their beards to whiskers, and a small tuft jecture proved correct. They presently re"Beard," says old Fuller," was never the true of hair under their nether lip. But the people standard of brains;" a remark which shows at first refused to follow this dangerous examthat the tide had set against them. Soon ple. The Duke of Sully also persisted in cling; came the era of the wig, and of elaborately ing to his beard. This man, great as a general artificial attire; and poetry disappeared from and a minister, was likewise so in his retirethe English face and dress. Yet, for the next ment, and had the courage to keep his long two or three generations, some sturdy Jacobite, beard; nay, to appear with it at the court of ever and anon appeared true to the house of Louis XIII., when called thither to give his advice in an affair of importance. The young Stuart and the memory of Vandyke, who smooth shaven courtiers laughed outright at made a vow not to shave till the king had his the grave look and old fashioned appearance of own again. These beards were called vow- the venerable minister; on which the latter, probeards. One Scottish gentleman, from whose bably jealous of the honor of his beard, obloins was destined to spring a descendant who served to the king, "Sir, when your father of should awaken all Europe to a delighted in-glorious memory, did me the honor to consult terest in the memory of its past, made himself me on his great and important affairs, the first famous in his country by one of these orna-thing he did was to send away all the buffoons ments. This was Scott, of Harden, known as and stage-dancers of his court." "Beardie" Harden, from this peculiarity, to "The Czar Peter, who had so many claims to whom the author of "Waverly," proud of his the surname of Great, seems to have been but race, as he justly was, looked back, we believe had the boldness to impose a tax on the prolittle worthy of it in the matter of beards. He with a peculiar tenderness. The king did not, duce of his people's chins. He ordered that the we know, get his own again; but whether the noblemen and gentlemen, tradesmen and arti beard shall ever get its own again, is a ques- sans, should pay a hundred rubles for the privi tion not now interesting to Jacobites only (if lege of retaining their beards, and that the lower such exist), but to an increasing class of people, class of people should pay a copeck for the of various kinds of opinion. Indeed, nothing same liberty; and he established clerks at the would injure its cause so much as its being gates of the different towns to collect these adopted as symbolic of particular opinions; and one reason why it is discouraged in England, is that it is somehow confused with the maintenance of revolutionary doctrine-as if its wearers were necessarily men who would, from their the vast empire of Muscovy. Both religion duties. Such a new and singular impost troubled and manners were thought in imminent, danger. Complaints were heard on all sides; and some ill-natured persons even went so far as to write libels against the sovereign. But Peter was inflexible, and shaving began in good earn Herberts, the Raleighs, and the men of that stamp. est; the Russians very generally coming to the conclusion that it was better to cut off their beards than to give serious offence to a man who Our utter want of knowledge as to what had the power of cutting off their heads. "Example, more powerful than authority; intention" of the beard, is abundantly shown may be (using Fichte's phrase)" the divine produced in Spain what the Czar Peter had not in the great variety of opinions which have accomplished in Russia without great difficulty. Philip V. ascended the throne with a shaven been offered as a substitute. Some one has chin. The courtiers imitated the prince, and suggested that the final cause of beards conthe people in turn imitated the courtiers. How-sists in the necessity of supporting the Shefever, although this revolution was brought about field trade; but we have not yet been sufwithout violence and by degrees, it caused much ficiently imbued with the doctrine of the lamentation and murmuring; the gravity of Bridgewater Treatises to believe in the provithe Spaniards lost by the change, and they said, dential adaptation here implied. Our locoDesde que no hay barba no hay mas alma; we have lost our beards, we have lost our beards the natural clothing of the chin--a dísSince motive engine-drivers have discovered in souls." * In Mr. Rowland's comprehensive and interesting work, the title of which is at the head of our article, we are informed that "It was not the progress of civilization, it was a servile imitation of the first George that introduced among Englishmen that ridiculous practice of divesting their faces of every particle of hair. Prior to the reign of George I. such a practice was unknown, and would have been scoffed at as preposterous." covery, we opine, not without advantages, when, in bleak December mornings, they are rushing through the air at the rate of from thirty to fifty miles an hour. In fact, ardent advocates of the beard rest upon the argument that it is a natural respirator, as their strongest rock of defence. They all eagerly quote the evidence of Dr. Copland and Mr. Chadwick on the point. We will give our readers the benefit of Mr. Chadwick's remarks, as transscribed by Mr. Wilson, in his excellent work on the Skin: We set out by saying, that we desire to be impartial, and only aim at attaining a little "There can be no doubt," says Mr. Chadwick, more social liberty than the iron frame-work that the moustachio is a natural respirator, deof English conventionalism permits people to and cold; it is a defence of the throat and face fending the lungs from the inhalation of dust enjoy at present. It is undeniable that shay- against the cold; and it is equally, in warm ing does make its appearance as a custom in climates, a protection of those parts against excertain stages of society: that for several gen-cessive heat. Mr. Chadwick was first led to erations the cultivated ancients of the classic make these observations by seeing some blackworld shaved as closely as we do, and that the smiths who wore beards, whose moustachios tonsor was an important functionary in those were discolored by the quantity of iron de st days. Nay, from the shop of the tonsor, men arrived at great heights. Juvenal's bar ber Quo tondente gravis juveni mihi barba sonabat: (a line thus rendered in the version of queer He whose officious scissors went snip, snip, which had accumulated amongst the hairs; a d he justly inferred, that had not the dust been to arrested by a natural respirator, it must have found its way into the lungs, where it could not have done otherwise than be productive of evil consequences. Mr. Chadwick further reminds me of the necessity for the beard in sandy countries, as Syria and Egypt, and mentions the wellknown fact, that travellers through those countries will find it expedient, and even necessary to wait until their moustachios have grown to a sufficient length to defend their mouths against the admission of the burning sands of the deended by outvying nobles in possessions. Jesert. Upon the same principle, he conceives remy Taylor's father was a barber, too; and that the moustachio would be of service to laborthe barbers of Spain (a country which has ers in all dusty trades, such as millers, bakers, produced splendid beards) are immortalized masons, etc.; to workmen employed in grinding in music. Yet the beard is essentially honor-iron and steel, and to travellers on dusty roads. able in history: it revived in Rome, again; and it would scarcely become the most intensely civilized Englishman to sneer at the "In favor of the moustachio as a defence against the inhalation of the cold air, it has been stated that persons who wear moustachios are less susceptible of toothache than others equally exposed; and that the teeth are less apt to decay. The use of the moustachio and beard as a means of maintaining the temperature of the parts which it covers is indispensable. Mr. Chadwick remarks that he has known an instance of a cold occasioned by shaving the |