citement, and sometimes real enjoyment, in a bor- out of sight, now coming down again nearly touchder life, notwithstanding the hardships; something ing the surface of the earth, and then again disapis turning up continually to give spirit to the par-pearing in the distance, as if in search of shelter, ty, and our fare we look upon in a matter-of-course or fleeing from the impending wrath of the eleway, until it is occasionally varied, when fortune ments. The atmosphere became agitated, a light smiles upon us, by a change to fresh, delicious game. breeze blew into a gale. At short intervals the As we were toiling along one day, we were wind would lull, and then an eddy-wind would overtaken by a son of the Emerald Isle, all alone and on foot. He was not overloaded; his baggage consisted of a small bundle, hung on a stout cudgel, swung over his shoulder, the end of which rested in a huge fist, not unlike a brown loaf in resemblance. His walk was fast and steady; as he came up opposite to me, humming an Irish sweep over the plain, as if beat back from some far off mountain, sucking up the dust and smaller objects that lay in its path. The mules and other animals pulled away at the ropes, as if they, too, saw something in the appearance of inanimate nature, that warned them to flee from approaching danger. All becomes calm. It is too sudden to tune, I inquired where he was bound. "To Cal- be of long duration. The cloud banks become more dense and darker-they seem to lie but a It ifornia, sir," he replied, with a peculiar twinkle of his small gray eyes. The idea was so novel, few yards above the surface of the earth. to think that he would attempt a three months' journey, solitary and alone, across a country totally unknown to him, without friends, acquaintances, or provisions to last him any length of time, that I at first began to doubt his sincerity. But on he was going, and would soon have left our party behind, if it had not been proposed to him that he join our company. He accepted, and is now one of us. He has turned out to be an original genius, and witty, as you may well suppose. We have given him the name of "Tall Walker," although he disavows any claim to it, but says he was christened Pierce Flemming, in county Mayo. grows dark as night. Of a sudden, the atmosphere is in a blaze; and, with awful rapidity, peal after peal of thunder makes the very ground tremble. As the first sheet of limpid fire illumes the darkness, instantly followed by a crash like the sound of falling towers-the terror-stricken animals burst their fastenings and run wildly before the storm. The flood-gates of the sky are opened, and everything is deluged with water. The ocean itself seemed lifted from its bed, and borne in a volume through the air; it burst, and poured down the whole of its contents on our devoted heads, in the far distant plains of the Anahuac. The violence of the tempest soon passed by. Long and difficult was the task of recovering our mules again, and it was not till after a race of some miles. Our quarters were rendered most uncomwell known place of resort called Sportman's Hall, fortable, everything wet through-tent blown near Cincinnati, and not heard of the soul of good down, wagons upset, trunks burst open, and, what company and marksman, Joe Taylor? He still to me was a more serious loss than any inconvencontinues with his shot gun, or rifle, to be equal ience I felt, my writing materials were entirely to any emergency with a possibility of success. destroyed. The storm was over almost as sudden Wild turkeys, ducks, and snipe are frequently as it rose. brought in by him, after an absence of but an hour Numbers of deer and antelope are to be seen, but too far off to get a shot at them. The huntsman of our company is Joseph Taylor. Who is there that has visited, for a few years past, the or two. STORM ON THE PRAIRIE. On the 25th of June, encamped upon the open plain without wood or water. We are compelled to drink from the stagnant pools in the holes on the prairie, so intense is our thirst. The air is hot and oppressive. Dark clouds were looming up in the south-west, indicating the approach of supply in the stormy clouds. A thunder storm on the prairie is a fearful sight. All was rendered snug at our quarters, like any ship at sea, at the first distant sound of Vulcan's anvil, who is still forging the Ægian shield for Jupiter, not unlike the noise of Armorers, accomplishing the knights, The wagons were arranged to form a hollow And the firmament now glowed Without light, or fire, other than the light of heaven, we lay down upon the wet mattresses, and forgot our troubles as sleep, the universal leveller, stole o'er our brows with leaden legs and batty wings. There are many things to cheer the emigrants while on their long march, and not the least of these is the news occasionally received by telegraph. Be not astonished when I tell you that the telegraph is extended along the road to California. I do not mean the great Lightning King, O'Riley's, but a line established by the emigrants themselves, for their own convenience. I will explain. At different points along the road there are sheets of writing paper nailed up high on the trees by those who have gone on before. They are generally headed with the name of the officers the sky with fearful velocity. Various-sized birds of each company, and from what state they came, went crying through the air, now flying almost and then commences a detail of events occurring among them on the way up to this point, with short distance over rolling lands and dry hard soil, the date of the time when they passed this tele- we at length reached Fort Kearney. The idea graphic post. One day Taylor had been gone associated with what is termed a fort, would lead longer than usual on a hunting excursion, when one to suppose it would comprise a block-house, it was determined to call a halt, and, as it was with loop-holes to fire through, out on the enemy, growing towards five o'clock, we concluded to pitch our tent and go no further that night. He had gone on before us, and we supposed probably turned off the road to follow an antelope or wolf, to get a shot, and in that way had fallen behind We thought it best to await his coming up. us. or four walls enclosing a certain number of feet of ground, either square or oblong, with bastions and cannon, and a sentinel or two to keep up a warlike appearance. Not so with Fort Kearney. It is nothing more than a few mud huts, apparently built for a temporary purpose. It is situated on About an hour afterwards we heard him coming the north bank of the Platte river, opposite to down the road, he being still ahead of us. His Grand Island, three hundred and twenty-eight mule was loaded with game; and the first words miles from St. Joseph. We reached it on the ing for the proposed expedition the sanction of could not help making frequent halts to admire the commanding officer, we made our preparations scenes which cannot be surpassed, and which at with the view of overcoming all obstacles. Ac-every successive turn broke upon our sight with cordingly, long poles were prepared, shod with redoubled magnificence and grandeur. iron sockets at one end and hooks at the other, to We were now in the region of pines and northassist in scaling precipices; ropes with iron grap-ern plants; the old familiar oak, the birch, and we had from him, as he galloped within hailing distance, were, "More news by telegraph!" "What is it?" returned some half dozen voices at once. "Dupuy, of St. Louis, died of cholera yesterday; his company are six or eight hours ahead of us." I learned the news at the telegraphic station (an oak tree) about two miles up the road. On the 28th of June, at morning's dawn, our little train pursued its way along the margin of the Little Blue river, and as the road turned to the left leaving the prairie far behind, I turned to take a last look at its broad green surface, and, with a sigh, involuntarily repeated the lines, Oh! the prairie lea is the home for me, The chase, the chase, o'er the boundless waste, We are now entering the Pawnee region. The vicious habits of the Indian tribe from which it takes its name are such, that all the emigrants are doubly vigilant while in their country, and it is customary to increase the number of the guard at night. Their thieving propensities are such that a white man will lose the very coat from his back and the boots from his feet, between sleeping and waking, scarcely being aware of it until fairly aroused, and then he becomes sensible of the fact that they have been stolen from him. The Arabian tale of the three sharpers that stole from the countryman, who was taking a goat to the Bagdad market, his goat, his mule, and his clothes from his back, without he suspecting it until too late, is a mere nothing to the stories I hear of these Indians. Some of them I will transfer to paper at the earliest opportunity. From the Little Blue river the road stretches across the country a distance of twenty-eight miles to the Platte river. We passed through fine bottom lands, a dark luxuriant soil, covered for the space of a hundred yards with buffalo skulls. The picturesque scenery surrounding the entrance to this valley, brought to mind the romantic myth of the Northmen. Imagination pictured among the bones, tall warriors drinking their fiery draught from the skulls of those whom they have killed in battle, and dancing their drunken war-dance in Odin's Halls, and on the mead of Valhallah. Passing the low bottom lands, we reached the banks of the Platte river; pursuing its course a 30th of June, about mid-day, and encamped on the low plat in front of it. Found plenty of soldiers, and a blacksmith's shop. The latter we have had occasion to call pretty loudly for, considering the little experience each one of our party has had in that line of business. The venerable descendant of Vulcan, with his assistants, seem to be in great demand, as a large number of emigrants are waiting here to make repairs, and to give their mules time to recover from the effects of over-driving. ASCENT OF MOUNT ORIZABA. To the Editor of the Living Age. WHILE looking recently at some of the back numbers of your valuable periodical, I observed an account of the expedition by a party of American officers to the summit of Orizaba, which, like most of the accounts from Mexico, published while our army occupied that country, contains many errors. I have thought, therefore, that an account of the trip by one of the successful party, might not be unacceptable to your readers. The Peak of Orizaba, though situated nearly a hundred miles inland, is the first point which comes in view on approaching Vera Cruz from the gulf. Being visible fifty miles at sea, it is the most important land-mark to the sailor in those regions. While the command under Colonel (now General) Bankhead, which was the first to march from Vera Cruz to the city of Orizaba, was "en route," (Feb. 1848,) the mountain being constantly in view, a trip to its summit was frequently discussed; and after our arrival at that place, the marvellous stories told by the inhabitants only increased the desire to make the attempt. All agreed that the summit had never been reached, though several knew or had heard of its being attempted. The difficulties to be encountered were represented as perfectly insurmountable; craggy precipices were to be climbed, gullies two thousand feet deep to be crossed, inclined planes of smooth ice to be ascended; to say nothing of the avalanches, under which, we were assured, all of the rash party daring the attempt would find a ready grave. These extraordinary accounts produced quite a different effect from the one anticipated, and the question was not who would go, but who should stay at home. It was not, however, till the latter part of April that the weather was thought favorable, and secur nels were provided, to be thrown over a projecting crag or icy point; rope ladders were made, to be used if required; shoes and sandals, with sharp projecting points to assist in climbing the icy slopes, were also bespoken ;-in short, everything that it was thought might be needed or would increase the chances of success, was taken along. The selection of a route presented some diffi other trees unknown to the low country, were around us; the heavy undergrowth had disappeared, and we could almost imagine ourselves in our "dear native land." Cultivation does not extend up as high as we expected to see it; we passed the upper limit at about 8000 feet elevation. About 12 o'clock, and at an elevation of rather more than 10,000 feet, culty, different ones being recommended-those the guides reported that mules could go no further, by San Andres and San Juan de Coscomatapec particularly. In order to decide between them we endeavored to persuade some of the most intelligent of the citizens, who were acquainted with the country, to go with us. At first they consented, but as the time approached one after another declined, till finally, when the party was assembled for starting, it was found we were to go alone. Then, as some of us inclined to one route, and others to the other, we concluded to reject all their recommendations, and go direct to the mountain, following the path taken by the Indians engaged in bringing down snow to the city, as far as the limits of vegetation, and from that point to go round the peak to the side which would present the best prospect of success. We left the city of Orizaba on the morning of the 7th of May, 1848, the party consisting of ten officers, including one of the navy, thirtyfour soldiers and two sailors serving with the naval battery, three or four Mexicans and Indians as guides, and enough pack mules to carry our provisions and equipments. Our expedition setting out during the armistice, it was thought advisable to procure a passport from the Prefect of Orizaba to provide against contingencies. About six miles from the city of Orizaba we passed through the small Indian village of La Perla; the inhabitants were very much frightened at our approach, but our passport soon quieted them, and when they came to know the object of our visit they seemed to regard us as the greatest set of donkeys they ever saw, telling us very plainly we could never reach the summit. Nothing daunted, however, we continued on, and immediately after leaving their village commenced a rapid ascent, and began to enjoy views which of themselves would have amply repaid us for our trouble. We encamped for the night at an elevation of about 7000 feet above the sea; the night was clear and bracing, but not cold enough to be uncomfortable. and not knowing anything of our route beyond, we were compelled to encamp for the night. A brother officer and myself, however, being on horseback, and feeling comparatively fresh, determined to go forward and explore. We concluded that it would not do to stop where we were, but that mules with light loads might go still higher. We Accordingly, next morning we again started, four or five of us going in advance to select a good place for our encampment, and also to explore the best route for the final ascent. selected our camp on the verge of vegetation, and went forward by different routes far above the line of eternal snow. Under shelter of a rock, and far above that line, some of the party found a rude cross, decorated with paper ornaments and surrounded by tallow candles. Its history we were unable to learn, but it gave rise to many reflections. Who placed it there, when was it erected, and what event did it record? were questions asked, but not answered. During our trip several parties of Indians passed us, who made a regular business of bringing down snow on their backs for the use of the citizens of Orizaba. The cross was probably erected by some of them. On our return we found all our baggage brought up to our new encampment, notwithstanding it had been pronounced impossible, and on comparing notes, selected the route which seemed most practicable, and prepared for ascent next morning. The night was clear and cold, the thermometer falling below the freezing point; a heavy frost and frozen water reminding us very forcibly of " auld lang syne." While sitting around our camp fires this evening, it was discovered that we had two flags in the party; the sailors, not knowing that one had been brought along, had carried materials and manufactured one in camp. It was proposed to get up a rivalry as to which flag should be planted first; but we came to the conclusion that, should the summit be reached, the honor should be equally shared. The next morning was clear and beautiful, and after an early breakfast we were again in motion. As night came on we enjoyed a most magnificent The scenery was truly sublime, and ascending one sight: the clouds gathered round the foot of the mountain after another, valley after valley ap- mountain so as to entirely obstruct a distant view, peared in view; hills, which at first seemed while the lightning's vivid flash, darting from cloud mountains, kept gradually sinking at our feet, to cloud, was visible far beneath our feet; the sky and the range of vision constantly extending, we overhead being bright and beautiful. We were encamped at an elevation, according to the barom- | as the circumstances would admit, and for that pureter, of 12,200 feet-about double that of the highest pose had carried a barometer, the best I could get, point of the White Mountains-while the peak still which from previous calculations I deemed capable raised its snow-white head above us to a height of indicating a height of from 300 to 400 feet nearly equal to that of Mount Washington above the sea, and seemed to frown down upon the pigmies who dared attempt to scale its giddy, and, as yet, unascended height. At daylight on the morning of the 10th of May, we were again in motion; many of the party had already given out, so that there were but twentyfour persons to start on the final ascent. In a few minutes we were at the foot of the snow, and taking the route over which there appeared to be least of it, passed for half or three fourths of a mile over loose volcanic sand. On measuring the slope of this I found it to be 33°. It was by far the most difficult portion of our ascent; sinking up to the knees in sand, we seemed to go back about as far as we stepped forward, while the rarefied condition higher than that given by him. I had also provided myself with a spirit-lamp and thermometer, for the purpose of taking the temperature of boiling water; on the march, however, the bottle containing the alcohol was broken and the alcohol lost. I therefore determined to test the combustible properties of whiskey. One of my first objects after reaching the summit was to make the observations, but on preparing the barometer the mercury sunk at once below the graduation! I estimated the distance between the lowest line of graduation and the top of the mercury at two tenths of an inch, which gives with corresponding observations in the city of Orizaba at the same hour-an elevation of 17,907 feet, and makes it the highest point on the North American continent. of the atmosphere made exertion painful in the I do not think I could have been far wrong in my extreme; indeed, during the whole of this day's estimate, as the means of comparison were before ascent, it was impossible to advance fifty paces me; but even supposing I was mistaken one twenwithout stopping for breath. When not exerting tieth of an inch, we still have an elevation of 17,819 ourselves, we could breathe comparatively easy, but the moment we moved we were forcibly reminded of our great elevation. I can only compare the sensation produced to that experienced by a person who, after running at the top of his speed, is ready to drop from sheer exhaustion. The feet, 98 feet higher than Popocatapetl, which is usually considered the highest point (5,400 metres, or 17,721 feet, as given by Humboldt). temperature was just below the freezing point. My attempt to make whiskey burn was a failure. Since my return to the United States, I have obAt length, however, we reached the firm rock, served the following remark in Humboldt's work : and it was quite a relief to be once more where we Eight years before my arrival in Mexico, Mr. could use both hands and feet for climbing. But Ferrar measured Citlaltipetl, (Orizaba,) and he we were yet far from the point at which we were gives it an elevation of 5,450 metres (17,885 feet); aiming, and before reaching it were to be many my measurement, made from a plain near Xalapa, times sorely disappointed. A projecting crag far is 155 metres less (5,295 metres, or 17,377 feet)." above would be hailed as the summit; step after It will be seen that my determination agrees very step the weary body was dragged along till at length it was reached; but once there, it was found We remained on the summit about an hour, to be but the base of another still higher; this planted the "stars and stripes," and hailed them being overcome, another was discovered above. with three hearty cheers; fired pistols over and Thus, time after time, were our expectations into the crater to hear the report, collected quite a crushed, till hope seemed almost to have forsaken number of specimens. some of them of pure sulus, and one after another dropped behind in despair. phur, and most of the others containing lime; But " go a-head" was our motto, and go a-head emptied our bottle and left it, containing a paper some of the party did, till at length their efforts on which were written, in pencil, the names of the were crowned with success, and they dropped exhausted on the brink of the crater! nearly with that of Mr. Ferrar. successful party, and after remaining to enjoy the scenery, commenced our descent. The day was clear, but the atmosphere thick and smoky, so that we did not have the views we had hoped for; but as we believed ourselves to be the first who had The crater is nearly circular, and variously estimated by different members of the party at from 400 to 650 yards in diameter. We all put the depth at about 300 feet. The sides are nearly ever looked into the crater, we felt amply repaid vertical, and show strong and unmistakeable signs for our trouble. of fire, looking like the mouth of some gigantic furnace. At the foot of this perpendicular wall was quite a bank of sand, or débris, which had fallen from the inner surface of the rock, showing a great length of time since the volcano became extinct. The bottom of the crater was covered with snow. Humboldt says its most violent eruptions were from A. D. 1545 to 1566; I have seen no record of an eruption since. Those who reached the summit were Major Manigault, 13th Infantry; Captain Lomax, Alabama Volunteers; acting Assistant-Surgeon Banks, U. S. Army; passed Midshipman Henry Rogers, U.S. Navy; a private of the Alabama Volunteers, whose name I do not now recollect; a Mexican, whom we had employed as interpreter for the Indians, and myself,-seven of the twenty-four who started in the morning, or of the fifty persons who started on the expedition ! It being my desire to test Humboldt's altitude, The descent was by no means as difficult as the I had taken the precaution to be as well prepared ascent; a slide on the snow or sand carried us 161 hundreds of feet down-a space which had required | course over cool seas. All who made the final attempt were more or less affected either with violent headaches, nausea, and vomiting, or bleeding at the nose. The veils which we had provided for our journey did good service, but the face, particularly the lips, of all those who reached the summit, became so swollen and cracked as to be exceedingly painful, indeed to such a degree as to confine some of them to their rooms for several days. At half-past 6 o'clock next morning we left camp on our return, those who had horses going in advance, and by riding very slowly, not out of a walk, and stopping on the way to gather flowers, we reached Orizaba at one o'clock, P. M.; only six hours and a half from the region of eternal snow to where frost is never known! We had a beautiful opportunity of observing the change of vegetation with the change of altitude; the lines were clearly and distinctly marked, and seemed to run nearly horizontal. When we started on our return the sky was bright and clear, while beneath us rolled an ocean of clouds; we saw plainly when we were passing through them; there was considerable wind, and they were floating briskly about the sides of mountains; as we passed into them, the sky was shut out, and we were in a dense fog: in a few minutes all was clear below, and the day was cloudy! After our return, the Mexican asked for and obtained a certificate, signed by all the party, that he had been to the summit; he said his countrymen would not believe him-many of them would not believe us, though one gentleman said he had seen us distinctly with his spy-glass, while on our way up; others contented themselves by saying, "Los Americanos son los diablos." The difficulty of the undertaking had been greatly magnified; none of our preparations excepting veils were necessary. The sand is the most serious obstacle to be overcome, and by taking a more circuitous route from our last encampment, this might have been avoided. All that is required is a physical constitution capable of sustaining the fatigue, patience and perseverance. Another party was spoken of, and some of us who had made the trip would have gladly gone again, partly in hopes of obtaining a better view, and partly to get more accurate barometric observations, but the glad tidings of peace cut short our plans, and gave us the more agreeable trip toW. F. RAYNOLDS, Lieut. Top'l. Eng'rs. home and friends. Washington, July, 1849. Correspondence of the Journal of Commerce. THE STRAITS OF MAGALHAEN. STRAITS OF MAGALHAEN, Schr. Empire, 22d April, 1849. Babel imagine himself a lonely admirer of these erb, but the Solomon who first uttered it had little emotions, till they find an expression in happiness, our loss becomes gain. Sea fare cannot at all weeks of fighting with pamperos and heavy gales These are classic waters. Through this nar- A VOICE from over sea! It should be freshened supposed to be the only channel for ships, and by the many winds through which it pierces, many were the rich argosies that passed here with strengthened by loud gales, yet soft in its pleasant the fruits of sunnier climes: many too, CCLXXXIV. LIVING AGE. VOL. XXIII. 11 |