From The Spectator. HEATHMAN'S SWITZERLAND.*

ALTHOUGH Switzerland and the routes to

as hard and as red as cedar. Both climate and soil appear admirably adapted to their growth. They often present themselves to you in places and soils where you wonder not only how they it have been over much written upon already, grow, but how ever they could have found their way there in the first instance. At one time Mr. Heathman's volume may be read with you find them on the very edge of a rocky proadvantage through two circumstances, the jection, and at another on the bare ridge of nature of his travels, and the character of the the highest mountains. This mystery was traveller. Ill health compelled the Rector of in some measure afterwards solved. One day St. Lawrence to seek recreation for a time; walking up a slope most luxuriant with firs, and he passed two summers in the Alps, act- I observed about half a dozen small ones growing for a while as British Chaplain at Interla-ing upon a stone of four or five tons weight ken, and passing the remainder in leisurely some feet above the ground. Wondering by excursions. He was thus rather a sojourner what possibility they could grow in such a than a mere traveller, with the advantages of situation, I was led more closely to examine them, and found they were only rooted in close observation which leisure alone can moss, and derived their nourishment, like orgive. chideous plants, from the moisture of the atmosLike many other clergymen, Mr. Heath-phere and from rain. Passing on, I noticed othman takes an interest in those common things ers of larger growth in similar situations; and that make up the sum of character and daily on inspecting them also, I discovered their roots life. He is sensible in his observations and had spread over the surface of the rock, and shrewd in his remarks, with a good deal of found their way into crevices where they had be tolerance in his judgments. His Switzerland, accelerated by the rocks in question being of a come firmly rooted. This process is no doubt though originating in travel, is very far from crumbling, rotten description, yielding to the a common book of travels, with, hurried itine- force of nature, which in the most gradual, and rary, occasional occurrences by the way, eter- yet the most certain manner, introduces the root, nal descriptions of scenery, and the frequent splits the rock, and promotes the growth of the introduction of information condensed from tree. Indeed, the decayed leaves of the fir alone, the guidebook. The volume before us is as in the course of years, will be sufficient for its much a series of topics in successive chapters support; and when the trees are come to matuas a continuous narrative of journeying. The rity and have been cut, the soil, which previously author begins with some advice to travellers was nothing but rock, has been found to produce the very best crops. of British breed, not all new, but very judi- This will account for the phenomenon which cious. He passes rapidly through France you everywhere find in Switzerland, viz. firs into Switzerland, only noticing the most re-growing on the ledge of the loftiest cliffs and markable circumstances for comment. In barren mountain-tops, some of them 3000 or Switzerland itself his subjects are various. 4000 feet above the level of the sea. No doubt, Now, he describes a particular place and the excursions that may be made from it. Then, he narrates a longer and more adventurous enterprise in the ascent of mountains; he briefly discusses the social and political condition of Switzerland at some towns; her religious state, as well as that of Italy, at other places, where the subject is suggested by circumstances. National characteristics, social economy, and natural history in the form of Alpine phenomena, are the principal objects of Mr. Heathman's attention, and they form not the least attractive portion of the book. This is an example; the growth of fir-trees in extraordinary situations, and the future effects upon the soil:

There are three different species of fir found in the Alps-the larch, the spruce and the silver. Those growing on the loftiest mountains produce the best timber, which in some situations is

*Switzerland in 1854-5: a Book of Travels, Men, and Things. By the Rev. W. G. Heathman, B.A., Rector of St. Lawrence, Exeter. Published by Hope and Co.

the seed has been conveyed thither in the first instance by the tourmentes, then vegetated in the manner I have before described, and afterwards taken such firm root in the very rocks themselves that they were enabled to withstand the blasts of

the fiercest tempests.

The only surprise is, how any one can be found hazardous enough to cut them, since you would imagine they could never be approached: nevertheless, there are hardy mountaineers ready every season, who are roped and let down the preci pice to effect this object.

Present opinion is against the Swiss, as a grasping, mercenary people, from whom it is useless to expect civility, much less service, without a consideration: in fact, the homilies of travellers run upon the text of "point d'ar differently; he found them otherwise. The gent point de Suisse." Our author thinks difference lies perhaps in the fact that Mr. Heathman speaks of the peasantry in remoter places; the generality of travellers speak of the hangers-on about hotels, conveyances, and show-places, on leading lines of route, where English and Russian travellers have assisted to corrupt them.

This is a pretty little story from popular tradition: it is connected with a ruin and the feudal wars of the middle ages:

This Bourcard had an only daughter of surpassing beauty, who appears to have captivated the heart of Rudolphe de Wadiswyl, the youngest, the bravest, and most amiable of the Dukes of Zahringen, at some tournament. Despairing of overcoming the hatred of the Baron to his race, and of obtaining the hand of Ida in a legitimate way, he formed the idea of carrying her off by force. Soon after, in consequence of the absence of the father, a favorable opportunity presented itself. He eloped with the fair Ida; who, it appears, was not unwilling to accompany him to his quarters at Berne.

The herdsman who gave this information (re- | taste, and is very inferior to that which is specting the manufacture of butter and cheese) boiled. might have been thirty years of age, with an herculean frame, although he lived on the most simple food during the four months he remained in the mountains. In fact, it consisted of nothing but milk in one shape or another; having neither tasted bread nor meat, nor even potatoes during that time. It may be that the simplicity of their mode of living produces some effect upon their character. Be this as it may, thus much I can aver-in every instance where I have been brought in contact with them I have found them hospitable, generous, and kind, entertaining me with a simplicity, a readiness, and good feeling, that was quite surprising. It is not wealth, but the gentle nature, the considerate feeling, the just and disinterested motive-in fact, all that is unselfish and generous, which constitutes a much misnamed character. Too frequently that character is not found in the busy haunts of men, though possessed of all the attributes of wealth, This piece of violence only served to increase interest, and power, which mankind deem essen- the Baron's rage, and became the occasion of tial. I need scarce say, that very often it is not sanguinary wars which devastated the country found in the mansions of the great, at the marts between Berne and Interlaken. Rudolphe, geneof the merchant, or in the haunts of fashionable rous as he was brave, at length effected by stratlife. But I have found these qualities combined agem what he could not accomplish by force of beside the glacier and the snow, surrounded by arms. Fatigued with glory and tired of battleimpenetrable rocks, inhabiting, it may be, a frail fields, he sought an interview with his enemy. wooden chalet, and employed in what the world He presented himself unarmed at the castle, aowould regard the mean occupation of a herds-companied only by a page, and by bribes obtainman. And when I have regarded their primi- ed an entrance. He bore in his arms the little tive manners, their mere requirements of food and raiment, their contentment, and their rosity, and, I would hope, religion-then has it poured contempt on the pride, the pomp, and luxury, and all those baubles which too frequently delight the inhabitants of our cities and

towns.

gene

The following fact respecting the preservation of butter may be worth the trouble of an experiment:

They have two methods of preserving butter: the first is by melting it over a slow fire in the large cauldron in which the milk is converted into curds, and then pouring it after a couple of hours, in a liquid state, into wooden tubs, containing not more than ten or a dozen pounds of the material; by this means it is preserved for winter use in very good condition; in fact it is infinitely superior to the article which is imported from Ireland into our large towns under the appellation of salt butter, and I think the plan might be followed with advantage in the buttermaking districts of our own country. Another method, by no means so good as the former, is to place vertical pegs on a shelf which is suspended from the roof of the cheese-chalet; around these pegs they place the butter, each day's making being added to the former, in an upward direction; and this inverted cone, for it assumes this shape, grows in dimensions as it proceeds upwards. The outside soon becomes covered with a coat of mildew, which to some extent, excludes the external air: it, however, but badly accomplishes this object; and the consequence is, that it partakes of a mouldy, stale

boy which his Ida had lately given birth to, and addressed Bourcard-now grown sad and gray from the loss of his beloved daughter-in the most respectful and submissive terms. The old man, who recognized at a glance the features of his long-estranged child in the object now before him, burst into tears, grasped the helpless babe in his trembling arms, and freely forgave the past the boy, Walter Rudolphe, named henceforth -yea more, he bequeathed by will and deed to Bourcard, the whole of his large possessions and

domains. It was this Walter who at his death left his heritage and lands to the convent of Interlaken. This romantic event took place somewhere about the middle of the thirteenth cen tury.

The following method of courting reads oddly enough, but it only differs in form from that of more refined societies:

They have many peculiar customs which seem to be the remains of a very primitive state of society, some of which also exist in other parts of the country. For instance, the "kiltgang," a singular mode of courtship, is common throughout the Oberland. When a girl is arrived at a marriageable age, the young men of the village assemble by consent on a given night at the gallery of the chalet in which the fair one resides. This creates no manner of surprise in the mind of her parents, who not only wink at the praetice, but are never better pleased than when the charms of their daughter attract the greatest number of admirers. Their arrival is soon announced by sundry taps at the different windows. After the family in the house has been roused

and dressed, (for the scene usually takes place at Romanist Italy than of Protestant Switzerland midnight, when they have all retired to rest,) the as regards religion. The whole Papal system window of the room prepared for the occasion, is placed upon a mine that will explode as in which the girl is at first alone, is opened. soon as foreign force is withdrawn. Several Then a parley commences, of a rather boisterous hundred Italians of thought and learning description each young man in turn urges his suit with all the eloquence and art of which he is have taken refuge at Geneva, where they have possessed. The fair one hesitates, doubts, asks founded an Italian Reformed Church, and our questions, but comes to no decision. She then author has hopes that its principles will exinvites the party to partake of a repast of cakes tend. In Geneva and the Protestant Cantons, and kirschwasser, which is prepared for them on the State has generally taken the Church the balcony. Indeed, this entertainment with wholly into its hands, and claims to control it the strong water of the cherry forms a promi- in spiritual matters as well as temporal. At nent feature in the proceedings of the night. least there are often no sufficient articles, creed, or test; so that Rationalism and Socinianism are prevalent, and no means exist of checking them.

After having regaled themselves for some time, during which and through the window she has

made use of all the witchery of woman's art, she feigns a desire to get rid of them all, and will sometimes call her parents to accomplish this object. The youths, however, are not to be put off; for, according to the custom of the country, they have come there for the express purpose of compelling her, on that night, there and then to make up her mind, and to declare the object of

her choice.

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The National Church is composed of all who accept its constitution. Its administration is intrusted to a Consistory of twenty-five lay and six ecclesiastical members. They are elected by

No one can say what the National Church of Geneva is at the present moment. It has no creed, no standard of appeal, no test of orthodoxy similar to our Thirty-nine Articles. It puts no questions to its ministers as to the soundness or unsoundness of their faith; and, by conAt length, after a further parley, her heart is sequence, it is a church destitute of even the touched, or at least she pretends it is, by the fa- profession of Christianity. This total want of vored swain. After certain preliminaries between all spiritual discipline, this culpable indifference the girl and her parents, her lover is admitted to everything which in all ages has been considthrough the window; where the affiance is sign-ered necessary to salvation, has caused a very ed and sealed, but not delivered, in the presence large secession from the Established Church; of both father and mother. By the consent of and, what is more to be regretted, there are all parties, the ceremony is not to extend beyond among its ranks some of the most pious, learned, a couple of hours; when, after a second jollifi- and influential ministers of Geneva. cation with the kirschwasser, they all retire-the happy man to bless his stars, but the rejected to console themselves with hope that at the next tournament of love making they may succeed better. In general, the girl's decision is taken in good part by all, and is regarded as decisive.all the Protestants of the Canton possessed of There are, however, exceptions. Some years ago, a stranger, who had received the preference of the girl of a village near Meyringen, fell by the hands of assassins, supposed to have been those who were keeping the kiltgang with him. On a more recent occasion, a youth from a neighboring village having presented himself at a kiltgang was cruelly beaten and sent about his business. This occurred at Grinderwald. Other The worst part of it is, that the parish minisstrangers.-of whom it would appear they are ters of Geneva do not confine their labors to the particularly jealous, for they desire to keep all parish to which they are elected, but are obliged their own lasses to themselves,-have been strip-to preach alternately for a month in each of the ped, besmeared, and paraded barefoot through the village; and, what is still more barbarous and disreputable, they have been followed by the hooting and pelting, not only of the youths themselves, but of the whole community, and afterwards ducked in a horse-pond.

Mr. Heathman speaks more hopefully of

ecclesiastical rights. Pastors are appointed by the Protestant citizens of the parish, and confirmed by the Consistory. The Consistory decides in all cases of doctrine and discipline. It may submit pastors to censure, suspension, and deprivation.

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other churches. It does indeed seem strange, that if in any particular parish they choose to elect a Socinian, the inhabitants of the next parish, who may eschew that form of doctrine, should nevertheless, be compelled to have such a teacher, probably for a fourth part of the

year.

From Household Words. A VERY TIGHT LITTLE ISLAND.

to receive her young pupils in her ample lap. She has stuck her trident on the isle of Heligoland, and hoisted the Union Jack on the top, to give notice to all whom it may concern that here is a dépôt for the foreign legion which the English government is raising in Germany, to help us and our real allies in the Crimea.

SIZE is not the only element of value, even in the case of landed estates, wherein men have a special hankering after elbow-room. Bulk does not constitute brilliancy, nor does immensity necessarily imply importance. Dry deserts that may be measured by geographical degrees, sterile steppes overstriding half Look at the map of Europe: there is a spice an empire's surface, Patagonian plains (lumps of humor in the choice of the spot. The adof the world's original paste, or dough, rolled vantages which it offers for the purpose are out with an endless rolling-pin) are but ci- quite out of the common way. In time of phers compared with tiny patches of earth peace, Heligoland is an advanced sentinel, who whose area, if cut out of them would be no can constantly keep her eye open on what is more missed than a kernel of wheat from a passing in the north of Germany. In war, she sack of corn. Etna and Vesuvius outweigh is a little Gibraltar, from which, as a centre in the moral, if not in the material balance, Britannia can send her cruisers to wander whole chains of ordinary mountains. Runny- about, her scouts to spy, and even her smugmede was not a common-place mead, nor Vau- glers to trade. At all times, therefore, in cluse a vulgar fountain. The spot shines, like spite of its tightness and exiguity, Heligoland phosphorescent adamant, with its own proper is by no means to be sneered at, as a posseslight, as well as with every ray it catches from sion of importance to the United Kingdom; every luminous object near it. No trifling of being a sort of outstretched snail's-eye, which this bright territorial diamond-dust glitters on allows us to watch whatever is in the wind on the British diadem. Besides the great central the North-German coast, at the mouths of its sun at home, she has distant outposts-fixed two main commercial arteries, Holstein and stars, twinkling merrily here and there through- Holland. At the present moment, Heligoout the dark vastness of terrestrial space land, in reference to Great Britain, is in a powhich cheer the British wanderer, and help sition analogous to that of the mouse in the him wonderfully to steer his way. There are fable and the lion caught in the net. Tedescan Gibraltar, Malta, St. Helena, and Ascension: art has woven round us meshes and snares the beloved of aldermen, the tomb of turtle. composed of four points, conferences, propoThere are Ceylon, Newfoundland, Cape Town, sitions, and mediations; but this little bit of and Corfu, none of which would be estimated pet-land enables us to laugh in our sleeve at in the market by the number of acres of land the cunning of diplomatic huntsmen. Accordthey contain. Last, and least, there exists ing to the reports of the government agents another little jewel-a clear chip of rock crys- from all quarters, recruiting for the foreign tal, a pure cairngorum-to the translucent brilliancy of whose native water recent circumstances have acted as the foil.

legion goes on most satisfactorily, notwithstanding the covert repugnance of some governments, and the open hostility of others. Great numbers of recruits are constantly arriving at the Heligoland dépôt, where a considerable number are still being trained and organized, and where they are behaving themselves so well that the fashionable world of the Hanse towns, although a little frightened at first are again flocking to their favorite dot in the ocean for their annual sea-dips in it.

At the foot of Denmark, out in the North Sea, in front of the mouths of the rivers Elbe and Weser, facing Cuxhaven in Hanover and also commanding the island of Neuwerk, is another little island called by us Heligoland (Helgoland by the Germans), which will help us to smile with unaffected pleasure and grin the grin of gladness, at the moment when we are receiving the sincere sympathy, the ami- The history of Heligoland is very simple. able assistance, the frank friendship, and the In the fourteenth century the Danes had escandid coadjutorship, of our dear, dear allies tablished a fort there; then, its only church the Germans in general, and the Austrians paid a quit-rent to the chapter of Schleswig. and Prussians in very particular particularity. Afterwards Hamburg exercised over it the siWe find it convenient to enroll a few foreign multaneous rights of lordship and protectorate; soldiers; and King Hiccup and his friends and, a desperate quarrel about herrings, ended are so pleased at our doings, that they testify in its being bombarded and taken by Denmark; a disposition to provide board and lodging at but, in eighteen hundred and seven, it was their own expense, both for English agents taken by the English. For many years Majorand the recruits they may raise. It is a long General Sir Henry King reigned over Heligoway, too, and the road is not quite straight land as governor. On this high functionary from the Tom Thumb German dukedoms to devolved the surveillance of the island and its the shores of Albion. Britannia, therefore, lighthouse, besides the office of judge and umsteps forward a great deal more than half way pire over the internal disputes of the inhab

itants. The present ruler is Sir John Hindmarsh, necessarily a captain in the navy, to preside over this extraordinary marine bit of territory. While the continental blockade lasted, Heligoland was of inestimable value to England as a convenient warehouse for smuggling.

north-east, stands the Upper Town, with about three hundred and twenty houses, and a church dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron of fishermen and babies (whether pickled or fresh). From this point the rock still rises, till it attains the Alpine elevation of a hundred and ninety feet above the level of the sea. Not far off This molecule in the midst of the waters (nothing is far off here) stands the light-house, is two thousand two hundred paces long, six erected by the English with no other materihundred and fifty broad at the widest part, als than stone, iron, and copper. Its rays comand some five thousand yards, or thereabouts, mand an extensive horizon, notifying distinctly in circumference. It will be supposed that to the wave-tossed traveller: "This is I! — railroads are things uncalled for; nay; even Heligoland, who shine so bright. Pursue your that coaches-and-six, tandems, dog-carts, and way, by the help of my luminous finger-post." high-mettled racers, are not in high request. But a beacon is an old establishment in HeligoThe island may contain a sedan-chair, or vinai- land. In 1673, the Hamburgians built a phagrette, for fashionable ladies; but the actual ros on the eminence called the Backeberg, existence of such a vehicle the deponent had wherein they kept up a cheerful coal-fire, rather not affirm on oath. A hop-skip-and- sometimes burning, during winter nights, as jump tour of her Majesty's tight little island, much as four hundred pounds of coal. is not an impossibility; and an intellectual flea, or a literary gnat, may one day give to the impatient world a nice little volume, with map and woodcuts, entitled, "Travels in Heligoland."

On approaching the island from Hamburg, it looks like a triangular rock surrounded by the sea on every side. The colors it presents have been transferred to the flag it has had the modesty to set up; which is red, white, and green; and Heligoland has not only a national flag, but a national minstrelsy. Here is a refrain apropos to both:

Roth ist der Strand,
Weiss ist der Sand,
Grün ist die Kant;

Das sind die Farben von Helgoland. which, translated, may be rendered:

Red is the strand,

White is the sand,
Green is the band;

Those are the colors of Heligoland.

Do not suppose that the continent of Heligoland is so poor as to be without its dependent islet a faithful satellite who never deserts it. Rather better than half-a-mile from Heligoland, on the south-east side, is Sandy Island, which is of the greatest consequence to the tight little mother-country, because on that are taken the sea-baths, which put a considerable revenue into Heligoland's pockets.

And why should not your marine six weeks be spent just as well at Heligoland as at Abergavenny, Brighton, Boulogne, or Etrebat? For lodgings, you have plenty of houses built of brick; so that you need not be afraid of finding room. The natives are hospitable, polite, sober, and hard-working, and are as well worth study as the rock on which they dwell. The men are active on the sea, and exercise no other calling than that of pilots or fishermen ; the women attend to the housekeeping and gardening, for there is no Royal Heligoland Agricultural Society. You may lodge either in the upper or the lower town, though the former is preferred for its more extensive seascape and its unlimited supply of breezes, genTo the south-east, only a little morsel of uine and fresh as imported. There are neither level ground is perceptible-a tiny tongue of taxes, duties, nor custom-house officers. For land, which is dignified by the title of The Un- anti-ichthyophagous persons, who cannot eat terland or Lowlands, and which rises gradually fish from morning till night, the steamers from to the foot of the rock, to about five-and-twenty Hamburg bring plenty of meat, besides fruit feet above the level of the sca. On this stands and first-class vegetables. The terrestrial fauna the lower town, composed of something like of Heligoland is limited, and would not require eighty houses. In a gorge of the rock is a new the zeal of a Cuvier to describe it. It contains staircase, which connects it with the Oberland cocks and hens, domestic rabbits, pigs, dogs, or Highlands. This staircase, decorated with a cats, sheep, mice, fleas, flies, gnats, earthworms, smart iron railing, is ten feet wide, is com- beetles, sparrows, and a few other well-known posed of one hundred and seventy-three wood-species, of equal interest to the scientific world. en steps, divided into three revolutions, at the It generally has one cow; but only during the bottom of each of which are seats to rest upon, fashionable season; for, at the approach of and oil-lamps to show light on winter nights. After this, do not boast of the luxury of London and Paris!

On the summit of the rock, towards the

winter, it is made into beef, and a new one imported next year. But its oceanic treasures are numberless. If you wish for a good fieldday amongst the real game of Heligoland, put