same size as the center section of each unit should be cut. Holes for entrance to the rooms should then be cut in the sides of each unit, as shown. The units are held together by hooks and screw eyes.

PLUMB BOARD

One piece, 2542 by 25% by 36 inches.

Notch out one end of the board as shown in Figure 77, but be sure the point of the triangle is in the center of the board and that the edges are planed

Remove the top and bottom from the larger box. Cut the entrance out of one end and nail two cleats on each side of this opening. (See fig. 78.) The ends should protrude 4 inches. The other two cleats should be nailed in the corners of the back end of the box. Construct the flooring as shown and secure it to the bottom of the box. The holes supply ventilation under the floor. Remove the top from the other box and cut to a triangular shape. Nail the roof boards over this framework, which should fit over the projecting ends of the

may be used. The heads of whichever type of fastener is used should be countersunk. If nails are used, they should be long enough to extend through the material and be clinched on the underside. Holes (6) 34 inch in diameter should be drilled through the front apron (C) and the sides of the box. Place pegs in the holes to support material to be planed. Fit and nail diagonal braces (D) across the front sides of the boxes. Screw frog (H) to the left-hand end of front apron (C). Secure

Ten pieces, 2542 by 2 by 24 inches for two diagonal braces and 8 cleats (D) and (E). Two pieces, 2532 by 3 by 24 inches, for drawer front and spacing strip (F) and (G). One piece, 116 by 234 by 10 inches, for frog (H). One piece, 2542 by 4 by 5 inches, for bench stop (I). One piece, 2592 by 11⁄2 by 5 inches, for drawer grip (J). Four pieces, 716 by 2% by 1616 inches, for drawer sides and

three planks (B) to the top ends of the boxes for the bench top. Screw bench stop (I) to the front left corner of the bench top. Cleat the tops of the boxes together to form doors for the tool cabinets. Hinge them to the open ends of the boxes. Cut a tool rack (P) and fasten it to the inside of each of the doors. Construct the bench drawer from pieces (J), (K), (L), (M), (N), (O), and (G).

divisions (K) and (M). One piece, 6 by 2% by 24 inches, for drawer back (L). One piece, 16 by 17 by 23 inches, for drawer bottom (0). Eight pieces, 16 by 2% by 54 inches, for drawer partitions (N). Two pieces, 2542 by 24 by 20 inches, for tool rack (P).

Nail a cleat (E) across the bottom of each box, flush with the bottom end, to support spacing strip (F). (See fig. 81.) Nail another cleat (E) across the bottom of each box 74 inches from the top ends for drawer slides. Place boxes on their sides 24 inches apart, with the bottoms facing each other. Nail apron (C) to the sides of each box so one edge of the apron is flush with the top ends of the boxes. The illustration suggests that the bench be bolted together with stove bolts; however, screws or nails

MITER BOARD

One piece, 2532 by 61⁄2 by 18 inches (A). One piece, 2532 by 21⁄2 by 18 inches (B). One piece 2532 by 1 by 18 inches (C).

Nail (B) to top face of (4) and (C) to the bottom face with its outside edge flush with the opposite edge of (A). (See fig. 82.) Measure 4 and 61⁄2 inches from each end of (B) as shown. A line drawn through these points will form an angle of 45° with the edges. Saw along this line completely through (B) only. A cut through the center of (B) 9 inches from each end may be used as a guide in squaring up the ends of the material. Cleat (C) should be placed against the front edge of the bench to keep the miter board in place on the bench.

ameter 2 inches from the narrow end, so the stick may be hung on a nail.

WORKSHOP UTILITY CABINET

One strong box, 36 by 20 by 6 inches (A). Six pieces, 46 inch by inside depth by inside width of box, for shelves (B). Fifteen pieces, 16 by 1 inch by inside depth of box, for shelf partitions (C). Six pieces, 3% by 4 inches by inside depth of box less 16 inch, for bin partitions (D). Two pieces, 516 by 2 inches by inside width of box, for bin fronts (E).

Nail five shelf partitions (C), spaced as illustrated in Figure 85, to each of the three shelves (B) and secure them to the upper part of the box. Nail three bin partitions (D) to each of two other shelves (B). Nail these shelves to the sides of the box below the three upper shelves. Nail bin-front pieces (E) across the front of partitions (D). Nail the remaining shelf in place 8 inches above the bottom of the box. Drive approximately four nails through the

Remove cover from box, tighten all joints, and nail all boards securely. Construct the lid from the top of the box, as shown in Figure 87, by nailing two pieces (C) to the ends and two battens (B) across the top about 4 inches from each end. Line the inside of the box with at least six thicknesses of newspapers. Tack the first two layers to the side, ends, and bottom and paste the additional layers to the first layers. Pack tightly sufficient excelsior in the bottom of the box to form a compressed mat at least 2 inches in thickness; 4 inches is preferable, as the better the cooker is insulated against the escape of heat the higher its efficiency. The excelsior or other insulating material may be dampened to make it pack tighter, but it should be permitted to dry out thoroughly before the inside cover boards are nailed in place. Wrap each of the pails with asbestos or heavy cardboard and place them on the bottom pad of insulating material. Sufficient additional material should be packed under the smaller container to bring its top on the same level as that of the larger pail. The pails

back of the cabinet into the back edges of the six shelves.

WASTE-BAG HOLDER

Four pieces, 2532 by 2 by 36 inches. Eight pieces, 2542 by 2 by 18 inches.

Nail the short pieces to the long pieces, as shown in Figure 86. Use hooks or nails driven into the top short pieces to hold the bag in the holder

FIRELESS COOKER

One heavy, well-built box, 33% by 19 by 17 inches. One cover, 8 inch by inside width by inside length of box (A) (may consist of four pieces). Two pieces, 8 by 11⁄2 inches by inside length of box, for inside cover cleats (D). Two pieces, 16 by 11⁄2 by 16 inches, for lid cleats (B). Two pieces, 2552 by 1 by 19 inches, for lid and cleats (C). Two tin or porcelain-lined pails of about 8 and 10 inches diameter, with lids. One kettle about 8 inches in diameter, with lid to fit in large pail. Two soapstone radiators. Bulbs, excelsior, or other insulating material, and two cushion pads to completely fill the top of the box above the inside cover (4). Sheet asbestos and newspapers. Two hinges.

should be spaced 6 inches apart and 4 inches from each end. Pack insulating material as tightly as possible all around the pails up to their tops. Nai! cleats (D) to the sides of the box to support cover (A) level with the brims of the pails. Cover (A) may be constructed from four pieces. Locate the brims of the pails on the boards and cut out circular holes. The brims of the pails should fit tightly in these holes. Nail cover (A) to cleats (D). Hinge the lid of the cooker in place. Make a cushion which will completely fill the space between the top of the nest and lid of the cooker. This cushion should fit so tight as to make it necessary to force the lid down tight and hook it shut.

WINDOW REFRIGERATOR

One box, 30 by 15 by 12 inches (A). One piece, 10 by 4 by 30 inches (C). One roof, 16 by 18 by 30 inches (B). Eight pieces, 6 by 2 by 30 inches, for top and bottom slats (D). Eight pieces, 16 by 2 inches by inside length of box, for shelf slats (E). Eight pieces, 16 by 2 inches by inside depth of box, for cleats (H). Four pieces, 71e by 1 by 15 inches, for vertical door strips (F). Four pieces, 6 by 1 by 13 inches, for horizontal door strips (G). One