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FIGURE 91.-Tool Chest.-Skillfully made, a tool chest should last a lifetime

TOOL CHEST

One box 32 by 12 by 8 inches, A. One piece 16 by 12 by 32 inches for lid B. Two pieces $16 by 2 inches by inside length of box A for tray sides C. One piece 16 by 6 inches by inside length of box A for tray bottom D. Four pieces 16 by 2 by 5% inches for partitions E and end of tray.

One piece 16 by 34 by 55% inches for tray end F. Two pieces 16 by 1 inch by inside width of box A for cleats G. Two butts (hinges). One hinge hasp and lock.

Shape tray sides C as shown in Figure 91. Nail sides C, end F, partitions E, and bottom D together to construct tray. Nail cleats G to ends of box A, as shown. Hinge lid B to box.

"DOWEL.

FIGURE 92.-Bathroom Cabinet.-If you have a bathroom cabinet make this for your own

room

BATHROOM CABINET

One box 24 by 16 by 6 inches, A. Three pieces 16 by inside depth by inside width of box for shelves B. One piece 716 by 16 by 24 inches for door C. Two pieces 18 by 34 by 12 inches for cleats D. One piece 16 by 8 by 16 inches for shelf back E. Six pieces 16 by 34 by inside depth of box for shelf cleats F. One piece 16 by 4 by 4 inches for brackets G. One piece 4-inch doweling 16 inches in length for towel rod H. One piece 16 by 6 by 16 inches for shelf top I. Two butts (hinges) and snap.

Nail cleats F to sides of box as shown in Figure 92. Nail shelves B to cleats F. If door is to be built up of several boards, cleat them together with cleats D as shown. Cut G diagonally across the corners to form triangular-shaped brackets.

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One piece 8 by 7 by 111⁄2 inches for door A. One box 111⁄2 by 7 by 311⁄2 inches, B. Two pieces 16 by inside depth by inside width of box B for shelves C. Two butts (hinges). Light chain.

Nail shelves C in box as shown in Figure 93. Hinge door A to bottom end of box. A chain may be used to keep the door in a horizontal position when open. The door then acts as a table. The box may be secured to a tree or the wall of the cabin or cottage.

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FIGURE 94.-Portable Tool Box.-Tools may may be conveniently carried from place to place in this box

PORTABLE TOOL BOX

Two pieces 18 by 26 by 81⁄2 inches for ends A. One piece by 8 by 24 inches, B. Two pieces 16 by 2716 by 24 inches for sides C. One piece e by 7% by 25% inches for bottom D. Four pieces 18 by 216 by 33% inches for partitions E. Shape ends A as shown in Figure 94. Construct box by nailing ends A, sides C, and bottom D

FIGURE 95.-Head Mounting Board.-For mounting your finest trophies

together. Shape handle B as shown and secure it to ends A and bottom D. Secure partitions E in place, nailing them to C and B.

HEAD MOUNTING BOARD

The size of the mounting board will naturally depend on what is to be mounted. Lumber 16 inch in thickness is suggested for use, in most cases. (See fig. 95.)

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"Fire is a good servant, but a bad master."

Woods fires in the United States cause millions of dollars worth of damage to mature timber, young growth, and other property every year. They destroy the little trees in the forest that should be the big trees of the future, they destroy the feathered and furry inhabitants of the woods, they prevent the forests from giving full protection to watersheds, and they ruin choice scenic areas and camp grounds.

And most of these fires are preventable. Individual responsibility, cooperation, and good sense, must therefore be depended upon in the struggle of use against abuse of fire.

According to the records of the United States Forest Service, careless smokers and campers are responsible for nearly one-third of the fires in the forests. These records of forests under protection place the major responsibility on human agencies; therefore greater care must be taken with matches, pipe ashes, and cigar and cigarette stubs, because they are the chief sources of fire in the forests. Be sure your match is out; break it in two before you throw it away, is one good rule in outdoor good manners. Be sure that pipe ashes and cigar and cigarette stubs are dead before throwing them away; above all, never throw them into brush, leaves, or needles, is another. Last, but not least: If you come across a fire already let loose, even if you are not responsible or may be in a hurry, be a good enough sport to put it out. If water is not at hand, try earth, particularly damp sand; and if the fire has gained too much headway for you to fight singlehanded or with what help you have, get help-find the forest ranger or some near-by farmer. Don't stop until the fire is down and out.

CAMP FIRE COMFORT AND CAUTION

Many people have a sense of "good woodsmanship" in the matter of selecting a safe place in which to build the fire that will cook the day's appetizing meals, and around which will center the evening pasttime. There are, however, others who know the "why," but not the "how" and "where" of the camp fire. In one year, 3,681 camp fires in the National Forest were so carelessly built or tended that they "got away," burned over 275,860 acres, and caused damage totaling thousands of dollars.

BUILDING THE CAMP FIRE

Some one has said that "nothing betrays the tenderfoot sooner than his fire. The woodsman builds a small, quick fire, sits beside it, and does his cooking. The tenderfoot makes a bonfire and cooks himself, while he smokes and burns his food."

An experienced camper never builds his fire near living trees, dead logs, or underbrush. He keeps away from overhanging branches and picks a good open space. He always builds it on an earth or rock foundation, scraping away all inflammable material-grass, needles, and trash-within a radius of 3 to 5 feet.

1 Forester, U. S. Forest Service, Department of Agriculture, and vice chairman, National Committee on Wood Utilization.

Then he may dig a small hole to lay the fire in, and place a rock on each side. A few iron rods, about 3 feet long, to be laid across a fire, are a useful addition to the camp outfit. Many convenient and useful types of camp grills and stoves, of course, are on the market.

If the wind comes up strongly, keep the fire small or put it out entirely. Every one who builds open fires should be equipped with a shovel, ax, and water bucket, to assist in putting out as well as in building the fire and cooking the meal.

THE RIGHTEOUS END OF A USEFUL FIRE

When breaking camp, the fire should be put out, dead out. Most States have laws requiring this and it is good woodsmanship. Use water or earth. Drench the fire thoroughly, and stir the embers while pouring on water so that the last spark will be killed, with no chance of coming to life again. It is best to top off with a shovelful of earth, for good measure.

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Never build a fire against a log or stump.
Never build a camp fire near brush or dry grass.

beyond control in a few seconds.

The wind may carry it

Never build a fire against a tree. Even if the fire does not scorch the foliage, it will dry out the bark and injure the growth.

Never leave a camp fire untended, even for a few minutes. A sudden wind may cause it to do the unexpected thing.

Never leave a camp ground until you are perfectly sure that the camp fire is out, dead out.

ATTRACTING BIRDS

The fact that birds feed on practically all insect pests and are instrumental in destroying weeds also, would make their presence desirable even without their beautiful coloring and lovely songs.

A simple way to attract, enjoy, and enlist the services of these friendly little creatures is to provide them with suitable and convenient ready-made homes. 'Information from Homes for Birds, Farmer's Bull. No. 1456, U. S. Department of Agriculture.

To be satisfactory, bird houses should be well-built, durable, cool, rain-proof, and accessible, since they should be cleaned after each brood's departure. Painting the houses increases their resistance to weather and adds to their attractiveness-brown, gray, and dull green are preferred colors for painting.

The roof of a bird house should slope sufficiently to shed water, or should have a groove cut across the face of the overhanging part. It should overhang the entrance by 2 or 3 inches, to keep out driving rain. Holes bored on an upward slant help to serve this purpose, also.

Ventilation should be provided by boring two or three augur holes through the side walls near the roof; this will allow heat to escape without making draughts, to which young birds are particularly susceptible. Or, a small opening could be left between the top of a side wall and the roof.

The inner walls of bird houses should be roughed or grooved, to help the young ones in learning to reach the entrance. As a general rule, bird houses should be placed rather low and not in dense woods, with the entrance turned away from prevailing winds.

Sheet-metal guards 18 inches in length placed around trunks of trees or poles at such a height as to prevent cats from springing from the ground and securing a foothold, will protect birds in houses from these enemies.

All bird houses should be repaired and thoroughly cleaned just before the nesting season comes. Periodical inspection of bird houses is essential after each brood has left. After cleaning the inside, the houses should be sprayed with cresol to destroy any pests that may have been overlooked.

In addition to planting trees, shrubs, and vines, and putting up water-proof roosting boxes, the providing of nesting material such as rags, ravelings, twine, excelsior, straw, hay, cotton, and hair, helps to attract birds. Food and water should also be supplied when not immediately available. With a few exceptions, birds will more than pay for what little damage they may do. TABLE 1.-Dimensions and locations of bird houses

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Open sunlit orchards.

Shade trees or under eaves of shed or porch roof.

(Rustic homes in old orchards and borders of woodlands; suet and nut meats placed on trays in trees especially attract these birds.

Shady or partly sunlit spots about door yards or orchards. Borders of woodlands or in brushy areas.

Dead trees near bodies of water.

Shelves placed under eaves of building.

On poles in open spaces near water.

Covered shelves in thickets.

Shrubbery in orchards or dooryards.

Old apple orchards.

Bridges or barns near bodies of

water.

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