We We still advance through the obscurity of the forest, the mountain on the right, and the torrent on the left, till we come to the second bridge, the ancient entrance, of the Chartreuse. This bridge passed, we cross to the opposite bank, and then have not more than half a league of the forest to traverse before we arrive at the convent. The same dreary scenes, the same lofty rocks and precipices, the same umbrageous gloom, still continue. still go on ascending; and the mountains seem to rise in proportion. However the coolness we enjoy here, even in the heat of summer, is always delightful. At length the valley widens, and the darkness of the forest begins to disappear. The spreading beech now takes place of the tall fir, which is only seen crowning the heights. Already the monastery appears shining through the opening foliage of the trees. Soon the forest terminates, and we find ourselves in a vast meadow, and at its extremity the eye may measure a part of that desert of which this edifice forms the centre. << The stupendous rocks which enclose it on every side reach far above the clouds, which mostly indeed rest upon their summits; here they form a dense shade, which, like a dark awning, completely conceals the sun from the view. Were not this the case, the fierce reflexion of its beams would be almost insupportable. Even on the brightest day, the sun is only visible (owing to the proximity of the rocks) as from the bottom of a deep well. indeed, there is a little space, which being On the west, By thus sheltered, is occupied by a dark grove of pine-trees; on every other side, the steep rocks, like so many walls, are not ten yards distant from the convent. this means, a dim and gloomy twilight perpetually reigns within; and it is difficult to read small print, even at the noon of the brightest summer's day. » The architecture of this building, which cost more than a million, is noble, simple, and solid. The meadow that is before the Chartreuse, is bounded by the forest which covers the whole of this elevated region. The façade is embellished by the gardens and terraces belonging to the ancient officers of the house. In the interior, we visit the apartments of the strangers, the spacious cellars and the dairy, where they make a kind of Gruyère, or Swiss cheese. The tables in the kitchen are formed of two slabs of rough marble. The hall of the Chapter, still embellished with the portraits of all the heads of the order, is one of the principal objects of curiosity; the extent of the cloister is very striking. It contains eighty cells. This convent was not sold during the French revolution; because no purchaser could be found for it, and being situated in a kind of desert, its demolition would have been of no advantage. The riches of this monastery were considerable, but their possessors were not envied because they received a great number of strangers (1), distributed many alms, and main(1) Mr. Gray thus describes his recepuon there, in tained a prodigious number of people all the year round. Besides, opulence had not introduced corruption within these walls. The primitive purity of cloistered virtue was still to be found here, and the rules of the order were rigidly observed: the Chartreuse had been its cradle, and it continued to be its example. The following are some of the regulations which were formerly strictly observed in this monastery. << Each member of the community had a cell, with a little garden adjoining. In this cell, he ate, slept, and worked, excepting during the hours of outdoor exercise, which each passed in cultivating his own little garden. By this means the recluses, however numerous, had no communication with each other. They never saw each other, but in the hour of public service; excepting on a Sunday, when they were allowed to go to the proper officer, who gave them their portions of food for 1739. The two fathers, who are commissioned to entertain strangers, (for the rest must neither speak to one another, nor to any one else) received us very kindly; and set before us a repast of dried fish, eggs, butter, and fruit, all excellent in their kind and extremely neat. They pressed us to spend the night there, and to stay some days with them; but this we could not do, so they led us about their house, which is like a little city; for there are 100 fathers, besides 300 servants, that make their clothes, grind their corn, press their wine, and do every thing among themselves. The whole is quite orderly and simple; nothing of finery, but the wonderful decency, and the strange situation, more than supply the place of it. » Works, Vol, I. page 202. 8vo. the week. Every one cooked his provisions in his own cell. «Their only sustenance is a coarse brown bread and vegetables. They are likewise allowed to receive fish, whenever it is given them. In case of illness, they are allowed two spoonfuls of wine to a pint of water. On high festivals they are allowed cheese. The cells are provided with water by a brook, which runs close by, and which enters the cells through holes left in the walls for that purpose. They always wear hair-cloth next the skin. Whenever it is necessary to make any communications to their brethren, they do it by signs, if possible. Every cell is furnished with skins of parchment, pens, ink, and colours and each one employs himself, for a certain time every day, in writing or transcribing. No one is admitted to take the Vows till the age of twenty (1). : To arrive at the Cell of St. Bruno, the founder of the Chartreuse, we follow a torrent by a broad and shady path for about a quarter of an hour; this cell has been converted into a chapel; and in a grotto beneath it a spring is still running, at which St. Bruno used to quench his thirst. Never was an asylum better chosen: on approaching this peaceable and profound solitude, we seem to feel a peculiar repose of the soul; a state of mind which silences all our tumultuous passions : (1) See the interesting « Tour to La Grande Chartreuse and Alet, by Dom Claude Lancelot, » 8vo. 1813, Here, Solitude, and Silence reign, And scorning aught of this vile earth, E'en in the desert spreads a feast (1). Other objects of curiosity in the environs of Grenoble, a country of wonders, are the Sassenage, famous for its caves and its cheese, and la Fontaine Ardente, a hot spring, near the village of St. Bartholomew, a short distance from Grenoble. The phenomenon that has rendered this place famous, appears to have been more striking formerly than it is at present. Flame and smoke are said to have been frequently emitted from it. St. Augustin reports, that in his time, a lighted flambeau was extinguished on approaching it, and another lighted that had been put out. The Greeks relate the same of the fountain of Dodona. An author of the seventeenth century assures us that the country people used to be in the habit of making parties of pleasure to this spring for the purpose of making pancakes without fire. The flames used to rise very high, and travellers have more than once in passing near this spring been alarmed under the idea of a (1) Imitation of part of the Latin Ode before quoted by Mr. Seward, the Anecdotist, printed in the European Magazine for 1791 |